Men's Designer Suits & Sport Coats

From dealing with the sales guy to choosing lapels—everything you need to know about buying the perfect suit.

1. Use the salesperson to your advantage
He’ll tell you whatever you want to hear—that everything looks great on you, that the store’s tailor can fix any suit. And you can almost be guaranteed his sense of style will be different from yours. For all these reasons, you need to know as much as possible about how a suit should fit and what kind of suit you’re looking for before you walk through the door. Remember, you’re the boss, not him. If you need his/her help finding the size and style you want, do so. Remember you will most likely be able to find the same suit online for half the price.

2. Know why you’re buying a suit
Are you hunting for a suit that you’re going to wear to the office once or more a week? (If so, keep it dark and classic.) Or are you looking for a suit you’ll wear a few times a year to weddings and funerals? (Black or navy is a safe bet.) Is it a suit you’ll wear to job interviews? (If so, you want to be well dressed but not better dressed than the guy interviewing you, so nothing too pricey.) Or is it the kind you’d wear with sneakers and a T-shirt, or wear just the jacket with a pair of jeans? (Think designer, Ermenegildo Zegna, Giorgio Armani, or Canali, not Brooks Brothers or Hickey Freeman.)

3. Start at a department store but purchase online
When you’re ready to start shopping, grab a friend who won’t hesitate to provide you with a blunt opinion, and head to a store like Barneys or Saks or Bloomingdale’s. You’ll be able to view a variety of brands instead of just one. Once you’re inside, do a lap of the suit floor by yourself. See what styles are carried—what grabs your attention. Look at prices. Ask for a salesman when you’re good and ready. Now, allow the salesperson to help you find your size if necessary. Once you determined the correct size it is time to go online to the Best Designer Suit Store and save enough money to buy a second suit or a pair of shoes.

4. Know your size
It sounds obvious, but it’s not. The most crucial element of a suit is its fit, and not many sales guys understand how a suit should fit or, more specifically, how you want yours to fit. Before you step into a dressing room, get a handle on the various components of a suit…
Shoulders:
The suit’s shoulders should hug yours; shoulder pads should not protrude beyond your own shoulders. If you stand sideways against a wall and the shoulder pad touches the wall before your arm does, the suit is too big.
Chest:
You should be able to easily button the jacket without it straining. Conversely, there shouldn’t be too much space between the button and your chest—no more than a fist’s worth.
Length:
When your arms are hanging straight down, you should be able to cup your fingers under the sides of your suit jacket. However, these days, with shorter suits in style, some jackets reach only about an inch beyond the cuff of your suit sleeve.

5. Start thinking about the number of buttons
Now you need to think about the style of the suit itself. The first thing you need to consider is the number of buttons on the suit. This will determine a good deal about the cut and fit. Here are some basic pointers:
The three-button suit became the dominant look in the 1990s; it now seems to be the standard young man’s choice. Instead of opting for one of those high-cut versions, look for one with a roll-over lapel—one in which you button the middle button, encouraging the soft lapel to roll over the top button.

For years the two-button suit was the go-to conservative, Capitol Hill getup. Now every fashion label imaginable is designing two-button suits, except they’re making them more streamlined and modern. This cut is what’s most in style right now.
If you’re looking for something rakish, a bit more high-style, try a one-button suit. It’s not for everyone, but if you can pull it off, it’s a sleek look.

6. Think about the vents on the back of the suit jacketA center vent is all-purpose; it is both modern and traditional. You can’t go wrong.
Side vents are more European; a bit more suave.
A ventless jacket is just plain wrong. It says you think it’s still 1986.

7. …and the type of lapel
A notch lapel—what you see on most business suits—is the standard. You’re always safe with a notch lapel.
A peak lapel is more old-school and elegant. And now it’s enjoying a comeback with the high-fashion crowd. It makes a statement.

8. Now head to the dressing room
If you’re not wearing a dress shirt and dress shoes, ask for them; a good store should be able to hook you up. Then, find the three-way mirror and size up your suit. And not just the jacket. Consider the pants, too: They should be comfortable, and the rise (where the pants sit on your waist) shouldn’t be too high or too low for your taste. If you don’t think the pants fit right, try on another suit.

9. Know what a tailor can—and can’t—do for you
Here are the areas you should direct your tailor’s attention to:
Shoulders: If your suit doesn’t fit in the shoulders, it’s not going to fit anywhere else. Salesmen will tell you they can reduce or reshape the shoulder pads—don’t listen to them.
Pants: If the pants are an inch or so too tight or too large in the waist, a tailor can usually fix them. But if it’s more than an inch, you’re asking for trouble.
Jacket: A tailor usually will need to alter the length of the sleeves. Insist that you’d like a quarter inch of shirt cuff to show. The sides of a jacket often need tapering so they contour to your torso. And check out the collar: Many times there is a roll in the back of the suit jacket, up near your neck. A good tailor can correct this.

Any tailoring required to obtain that perfect can be done locally with funds saved by shopping online.

By Clifford Pugh

Threadwize, a consortium of owners from 10 of the nation's top family-owned clothing stores, met in Houston this week to share ideas, talk about trends and figure out ways to attract more customers in the age of giant chains and the Internet. We took the opportunity to ask them about trends in menswear (most specialize in men's clothing) and find out what style question they get asked most frequently.

What's the big trend in menswear?
1. Soft jackets would be the biggest trend. It looks like a sport coat but with not as much construction. It's meant to be worn without a tie and is mostly worn with jeans or casual trousers. — Butch Blum, owner Butch Blum, Seattle

2. Latest trends: No socks, no black shoes (I've been preaching that one for 25 years), no silk pocket squares (just cotton; usually a shirt fabric stripe or check). Wearing trousers shorter (about 2.5 inches from the floor up or shorter) with no break. No cuff on flat front cotton trousers. But always cuff on dress trousers. And make the cuff larger, like 1 and 3/4 inches. — George Bass, owner George Bass, New Orleans

3. The biggest change in menswear within the last few years (yes, sadly it takes that long for men to embrace any change) is the advent of slimmer fitting clothing and flat front trousers. This new silhouette looks fresh and modern and is an obvious way to distinguish the young and hip (chronologically or merely as a way of thinking) from the tired old establishment. Needless to say, we did the same thing with our pleated trousers and oversized jackets way back when. Dress like your grandfather = hip. Like your dad = nerd. — Dick Pattison, owner Taylor Richards & Conger, Charlotte

4. Soft jackets that are shorter, to wear with jeans or casual pants. — Greg Eveloff, owner The Clotherie, Phoenix

5. Men’s suits are definitely trending to a closer fit than they have in the past; in jackets, higher armholes, trimmer silhouette, and in pants, definitely flat front and a narrower leg. Expect to wear your trouser bottoms higher than before because of the narrower leg. Double breasted clothing is still trying to make its mark. On the other end of the spectrum (in casual wear for fall), look for cleaner denims and interesting fabrics and finishes in sportswear. Sloppy is out. (Are y’all hearing that, Houston??) There are some definite retro trends as well – references to old-fashioned jeans with belt buckles on the back, elbow patches, and HENLEYS! — Murry Penner, owner M Penner, Houston

The length of your suit’s pants might make you look longer, shorter, trendier, old-fashioned.
The length of the pants of your suit depends on your personal preference. That is rule number one; follow your personal style rather than what a salesman is telling you. However, there is certain etiquette you might want to know about. In most cultures, the pants of the suit should be 1 centimeter above the sole of your shoe when standing up straight (measured from the back of the pants). I wear my pants 4 centimeters above the sole of my shoes which means you can see my socks when I walk, which is fine. You can play around with colored socks that match your outfit. When you sit, people shouldn’t have to see your bare calves or hairy legs (like mine). Especially during formal events, make sure your socks are long enough. David Beckham has the perfect length pants.

The major advantage of tailoring your pants to 4 centimeters above the sole of the shoe is that there are no extreme folds at the bottom. For me, a single subtle folding works. Long and skinny people often look better if they wear their pants of the suit a little longer (2 centimeters above the sole) because high-flood pants will optically create the illusion that the person’s legs are even longer. Short men should avoid wearing their pants only 1 or 2 centimeter above the sole of the shoe because many folds at the bottom creates the optical illusion that the person is even shorter.

Certain fashion designers like Thom Brown, have made high-flood pants a mantra for success of their fashion companies. Still, not all men can go to work like Thom Brown does. If you are working for a, let’s say, ‘traditional’ boss or your customers are very traditional, they usually dislike shorter lengths of the pants because they are used to ‘oversized’ clothing that was trendy many years ago.
From left to right: Hill Harper, John Legend and Terrence Howard. In my humble opinion, Harper’s pants are way too long, look at the folds at the bottom! Legend’s the man! He dared to try something creative which I think looks great. Howard’s pants are of the right length.

The length of the pants of your suit depends on your personal preference. That is rule number one; follow your personal style rather than what a salesman is telling you. However, there is certain etiquette you might want to know about. In most cultures, the pants of the suit should be 1 centimeter above the sole of your shoe when standing up straight (measured from the back of the pants). I wear my pants 4 centimeters above the sole of my shoes which means you can see my socks when I walk, which is fine. You can play around with colored socks that match your outfit. When you sit, people shouldn’t have to see your bare calves or hairy legs (like mine). Especially during formal events, make sure your socks are long enough. David Beckham has the perfect length pants.

The major advantage of tailoring your pants to 4 centimeters above the sole of the shoe is that there are no extreme folds at the bottom. For me, a single subtle folding works. Long and skinny people often look better if they wear their pants of the suit a little longer (2 centimeters above the sole) because high-flood pants will optically create the illusion that the person’s legs are even longer. Short men should avoid wearing their pants only 1 or 2 centimeter above the sole of the shoe because many folds at the bottom creates the optical illusion that the person is even shorter.

Certain fashion designers like Thom Brown, have made high-flood pants a mantra for success of their fashion companies. Still, not all men can go to work like Thom Brown does. If you are working for a, let’s say, ‘traditional’ boss or your customers are very traditional, they usually dislike shorter lengths of the pants because they are used to ‘oversized’ clothing that was trendy many years ago.

By RAY A. SMITH

Every workday, scores of businessmen go through the motion of putting on a dark suit and tie. These men end up looking almost indistinguishable from every other guy—and that's part of the problem.
For the man who wants to stand out, but not stick out, there are ways both subtle and bold to inject personality into a suit-and-tie look without prompting gawks from the office peanut gallery.

The trick is navigating how much to push the personalization. The look must be comfortable and confident, never forced or affected. Taken too far a man risks being accused of having a mid-life crisis or becoming a slave to fashion.

Suiting Up
Popular in the big-shouldered '80s, the double-breasted suit is mounting a comeback.

"Personalizing your suit demonstrates confidence and creativity," says David Lisbon, a menswear personal shopper at Bloomingdale's Manhattan flagship store.

Men just starting their careers may see the suit-and-tie thing as restrictive, a capitulation to a future of being just another bland man in a gray flannel suit. Older men may want to add some personal flair to their old standard.

Robin Walker, a Chicago-based image strategist, says her average client is 45 to 60 years old: "They are bored wearing the same old stuff," she says. "It may be stress-free and a no-brainer but they are tired of looking at it."

At the men's fashion shows in Europe late last month, some designers showed suits accessorized with gauzy scarves, T-shirts, sandals and even shorts.
Still, a man has to know when to say what's right and what's not for him—and avoid being a slave to outré runway looks.

Often, personalizing a suit just involves small tweaks and accessories. That can mean something that isn't immediately apparent to others, like a barely there pocket square. Or a leather braided or beaded bracelet worn just above the watch, recommends Eric Jennings, men's fashion director at Saks Fifth Avenue. "When you're reaching for your glass of wine or fork, [others] will see a flash of it." Mr. Jennings says he noticed a number of men wearing such bracelets last month in Italy, where he was attending menswear shows.

Another way to personalize a suit is with a custom belt, suggests Mr. Lisbon. The Trafalgar label, for example, has a program in which shoppers choose belt color, leather type, buckle and monogram style.

When it comes to cufflinks, going whimsical and quirky is acceptable, says Mr. Lisbon, so long as the designs aren't objectionable or offensive (no pin-up girls). Cufflinks can add a hint of color and humor to a more conservative look and also reflect the wearer's off-work interests with, say, a golf motif or images of sailboats.

A pocket square is an easy way to distinguish a suit. "It's a small thing but it does speak volumes," sending the message you care about the way you present yourself, says Mr. Jennings.

"Don't get hung up on the proper way to fold it," he adds. "There is no right or wrong way." Mr. Jennings notes that the Brunello Cucinelli label showed pocket squares folded in a number of different ways at a recent trade show.

The perfect suit watch is an equal mix of conservative and trendy, says Mr. Lisbon. He recommends a Frederique Constant model that is rose gold, which is popular right now, but is otherwise understated. While it can be worn with many suits, "it just oomphs up the classic khaki suit," he says.

Ms. Walker says it's OK to be a bit adventurous with the watch, choosing one that has a bolder face or evokes a certain time period. "It means [others] will have something to talk about when they shake your hand."
Leather bracelets, called wristlets, can be worn above a watch for a personalized look. Ms. Walker says one of her clients, who is more rock'n'roll when off the clock, wears a skull and crossbones bracelet under his suit to reflect that part of his personality.

She approves. "The outside of the suit is for everybody else, the inside is for you," she says.

Double-Breasted Lite

The double-breasted suit, popular in the big-shouldered '80s, is mounting a comeback. It was all over the runways at the recent spring 2012 men's shows in Europe and the July issue of GQ featured a double-breasted suit jacket on its cover for the first time since 1998. The look can give off a yacht captain or Masters of the Universe vibe without attention to a man's accessories. One key to personalizing the double-breasted suit (Z Zegna, $1,275, above), Bloomingdale's David Lisbon says, is to invest in a newer model that's slimmed down with four buttons rather than the typical six or more. Since the jacket covers more chest than a single-breasted, adding a lot of color with the tie (Turnbull & Asser, $185) and pocket square (Duchamp, $85) is the crucial play. A briefcase bag (Salvatore Ferragamo, $990), rather than a traditional boxy briefcase, also diffuses the stuffiness.

Power Khaki

In some people's minds, a khaki suit (the Men's Store Bloomingdale's, $350) can come off as Dockers-casual. While it's less formal than a wool suit, there are ways to personalize it to hit a sweet spot between basic-dressy and sporty. One way: Ditch the tie and focus on the shirt color, says Bloomingdale's David Lisbon. This bold purple-and-white check patterned shirt (Eton, $245), makes for a sophisticated, office-appropriate look. Other company men will wear their khaki suit with a tie, so going without will appear unique in a good way. Add a simple white sneaker (Jack Purcell for Converse, $80), as opposed to an athletic sneaker, to 'make it a little bit more summery nice,' Mr. Lisbon says. For the man who's just not a sneakers-guy, he recommends a slip-on loafer in some shade of brown. Adding a sleek, soft, attaché-style brown leather bag (Jack Spade, $375) 'dresses up the suit a tad,' Mr. Lisbon adds.

Urban Southern

In the wrong hands, a seersucker suit (Hugo Boss, $795) can look like a costume from the old-timey South—one reason some men find seersucker hard to pull off. The key to owning this look is to make the warm-weather Southern fixture more urbane, starting with the shoes. 'You're taking something classic and adding edge to it with a nice brown monkstrap, with or without a sock,' says Bloomingdale's David Lisbon. The shoe (Bruno Magli, $570) also helps dress up the seersucker. A simple pocket square—seersucker already makes enough of a statement so no need to go wild—adds a touch of formality, while the slim cotton tie (The Men's Store Bloomingdale's, $59.50) keeps the look relaxed and balanced. Another modernizing accessory is a backpack (Prada, $830) with a top handle so it can be carried by hand to a meeting, without wrinkling the jacket shoulder.

The New Navy

For the man who wants to project to the wider world that he is conservative but signal to intimates that he has some style tricks up his sleeves, start with a navy suit (Canali, $1,695). Whimsical light-blue cufflinks (Jenny Knott, $350) stay in the blue family but add a pop of color that mostly will be noticed by people in direct contact with the wearer. Socks (Duchamp, $35) are another opportunity to sneak in some personal style, says Bloomingdale's David Lisbon. 'He can be very conservative on top but show personal flair on the bottom.' Mr. Lisbon recommends a tie bar, 'which adds that extra layer of sophistication.' Look for one with some texture or engraving (Burberry, $150). For shoes, Mr. Lisbon prescribes moving away from the expected lace-up with a simple loafer with a modern edge, and less of a rounded toe. A loafer (Salvatore Ferragamo, $570) also tends to be lower in the front, a better way to flash a bit of fun sock color.