Anatomy Of A Well-Cut Suit
Jeanine Poggi
Wearing a suit is one thing, but wearing one that fits perfectly is something else. Look at these details to make sure you buy the right one.
A well-made suit is not just a fashion statement. Some argue it's the sort of thing that can help determine how far up the corporate ladder you go--and whether you manage to stay on it during a period of layoffs.
Even before the financial markets went south, businessmen were trying to dress the part. Men's tailored categories, which include suits, suit separates and sport coats, grew 7% overall in 2007, according to the NPD Group, a market research firm. In the current climate, however, such items are essential--and you should pay serious attention to detail when shopping for them.
In Depth: Anatomy Of A Well-Cut Suit
"Suits should be seen as investment pieces," says Michael Fisher, menswear editor at Stylesight, a trend-forecasting firm. "Just as men would do research before buying a new car, they should pay attention to the details of a suit, because it will be hanging in their closet for a while."
The most important quality of a good suit is a jacket that has a full canvas layer between the fabric and lining, says Michael Ostrove, senior vice president at men's retailer Paul Stuart. Cheaper suits have a lining that is fused or glued to the fabric. A more affordable option is half-canvas, where the designer only uses a layer in the more visible top portion of the jacket, but full canvas is best.
"Full canvas conforms better to the human body after multiple wears," Ostrove says." When the jacket is glued or fused it doesn't fit or wear as well." To test if the jacket is full-canvas, pinch the layers of fabric between the button holes. If you feel three layers it is full canvas, two layers is half canvas and one layer means the lining is fused or glued.
Also look under the collar of the jacket for a felt lining. "This allows the jacket to double as outerwear when it is cold and rainy," Fisher says. "It also helps the suit hold its shape around the neck."
Next, look at the tags for the thread count. The optimal thread count is a super 100 to 120, Ostrove advises. "The higher the number, the finer the yarn, which makes it more durable, soft and silky." But don't be tempted to go too high. Once you get into the 200s, the suit may look beautiful, but it becomes more fragile.
If you are buying a suit off the rack, avoid working buttons on the cuff of the jacket. "While they are a trademark of a made-to-wear suit, they make the jacket more costly and difficult to tailor," Fisher says. Also, the button should not be plastic; they crack easily in bad weather or from numerous trips to the dry cleaner. Opt for tortoise shell or enamel buttons instead.
