At the Milan menswear shows thus far, congratulations must be given to a few of the brands, at least for staying power, if not for anything else. This week had a great showing by most, a mediocre presentation by a few, and a disappointing turn by some. Here are a few that stood out:

Zegna
Ermenegildo Zegna turned 100 this week. Let's just take a minute and bask in the glow of finer manhood. There aren't that many men's labels around that do what Zegna does with such precision. This brand is an endangered species and their collection this week in Milan speaks to my statement. This collection fit in great with the overall image of the brand. Cottons, linens, silks, and mohair collaborated to great result -- a consistent line. Slimly cut suits and high-rising pants came to the forefront of this collection with the occasional see through tops that solidified the European styling of the looks.

Dolce &Gabbana
D&G's men's collection celebrated its 20th birthday at Le déjeuner sur l'herbe. The theme was picnics and if there is one thing that D&G know how to do -- it's set the mood. The catwalk transformed into a pasture of grass with videos of families on picnics on a backdrop video wall. Male models were styled to look like the picnicking type, strutted down the runway in dressy/casual looks that presented the illusion that they had just left the office and made a slight adjustment to their outfit to convert it into a perfect lunch time ensemble for the park. Blazers paired with preppy shorts and longer pants with layered looks brought the D&G perspective full circle. However, the colors in the collection didn't go well together and seemed out of place at times -- especially if the overall theme was supposed to be a picnic.

Dsquared2
Dsquared2's presentation was underwhelming. I was expecting more excitement, especially after seeing their previous collections. With that being said, the collection was plain -- but Dsquared2's most wearable collection to date. The collection included Dsquared2's signature jeans paired with blazers, buttoned shirts, skinny ties, and swimwear that seemed conservative for the brand. Embellishments to the garments were minimal, giving the looks a highly Americanized feel. The models were styled in a cool and relaxed way with sunglasses on some, and half buttoned shirts -- Tom Ford style. My favorite piece was a tailored khaki suit with a lavender shirt unbuttoned to the top of the torso. The designers teamed the ensemble with dark sunglasses, black pointy shoes, and a medium-sized black belt encompassing a jet setter look.

Etro
Etro has become known for its excellent tailoring and bright colors. This time around, the colors didn't show up as often. The designer instead opted for transparent darker colors with his signature paisley print as a silhouette. The collection was a breath of fresh air for the brand that was beginning to be borderline predictable. Fun separates took to the green lawn runway in Milan with Jackets and pants with lace shirts -- quite different from your Etro of the past. Fun prints and embroidery on collars of jackets and shirts accented the collection beautifully without coming off as too much. This collection was a pleasant surprise.
Overall, the men's presentations in Milan were mediocre at best -- with the occasional surprise. It seems as if menswear is moving to a transparent stylistic approach this next season with see through tops and solid colors. I didn't see too many patterns and embellishments. I guess the fashion industry isn't through with simplicity yet -- at least not in Milan.

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Construction
Same deal as with cars and watches: It's what's inside your suit jacket that counts the most, and for summer you want to avoid any padding or lining that might prevent your body from breathing. For maximum comfort, go completely unlined with the likes of this Zilli suit.

Cloth
Look for lightweight wools or some blended variation thereof — e.g., the wool-and-silk weave of this Brioni suit. Wool is usually weighed in ounces, and weaves in the seven-to-ten-ounce range (with seven being lighter and thinner) hit the summer sweet spot. You should also pay attention to the so-called super number (e.g., this suit's super 150 designation), with a higher number indicating finer, lighter-weight cloth

Color
If your job entails going from air-conditioned car to air-conditioned office and back again, you can get away with wearing dark suits straight through Labor Day. But if you're in and out of doors all day, opt for a lighter shade (like stone, pictured here) that reflects light and minimizes heat.

Technology
Beware newfangled technology in tailoring — except when said technology actually works. This Cool Effect suit from Ermenegildo Zegna, for one, is made of brown wool that has been dyed to take on the reflective properties of a much-lighter-color cloth.

One of men’s fashion's most storied brands, Ermenegildo Zegna, celebrated its 100th anniversary on Monday, June 21, with a swish and stylish double-header fashion show and a impressive retrospective exhibition in Milan.

Founded by Ermenegildo Gildo in 1910 after his watchmaker father acquired a couple of looms in an early example of entrepreneurship, today Zegna is a brand boasting sales of over one billion dollars. And it’s still all in family hands.

To celebrate its centenary, Zegna mixed heritage with innovation by staging two consecutive shows, held in La Triennale, which was also the setting of the Monday opening of a retrospective named, “Ermenegildo Zegna 100 Years of Excellence.”

Events opened with a display of the house’s main line, which was all about the fabric of this Milan season – seersucker, though instead of the usual contrasts of blue, or red, and white, there was lots of black and gray, or of navy and sky-blue.

Milan has also heralded the latest death of the tie, in an almost tie-free season, and they were largely banished at Zegna, though its bread and butter business is the sleek business suit. Instead, most models sported cotton or silk bandanas and racing stocks, and were all the more dashing for that.

Next came the far more fashion-forward Z Zegna collection, whose creative director, Alessandro Sartori, is currently rated the most sophisticated, new tailor in Italy. For next spring, he sees men in rugged linens and mixes of silk, cotton and even jute.

Sartori cut blazers and Eisenhower jackets with exposed seams and tapped into a major new look here, semi-transparent tailoring. By using silk chiffon mixes, he makes jackets super-lightweight and user friendly – they keep their shape and keep the wearer cool at the same time.

Featuring a palette of blood orange, cement, faded gray and rust, Sartori dreamed up some great new looks, even if his insistence on cutting most trousers two inches above the ankle seemed a tall ask for most men.

“I wanted the past and present of Zegna, but with the technological tailoring of the future,” Sartori said, as he received compliments backstage, dressed in a rough-hewn slate gray hemp suit.

Testifying to the longevity of this family business, the founder’s son, Angelo Zegna, a sturdy 88-year-old, took a bow at the show’s finale.

“For me it’s always about roots and winks. The roots are our tailoring, our great suits that give men a distinguished look. And the winks are our experimentation, our determination to try something new. And I think we saw plenty of both today,” smiled CEO Gildo Zegna, as the crowd of 1,500 drifted out of the event.

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Just weeks after her appointment as the successor of the deceased designer, Sarah Burton will show her first collection for Alexander McQueen during men's fashion week in Milan, kicking off June 19.

Burton has been working for McQueen's label for almost 15 years and acted as his right hand for the decade leading up to his death. Now, she has shared a preview of her first range with Women's Wear Daily, explaining: "The collection looks into English culture over the decades and to the England of Alexander McQueen, referencing the gentlemen of Savile Row, World War I Tommys and the demob."
At her appointment in May, she told the press: "The creation of modern, beautifully crafted clothes was at the heart of Lee's [Alexander McQueen's] vision. I intend to stay true to his legacy."

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By CHRISTINA PASSARIELLO

As they scrambled to whittle down dozens of outfits for Saturday's Dolce & Gabbana men's fashion show, designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana paused earlier this week to debate a sandal made of rope. "This looks too fashion, too wild," Mr. Gabbana sneered at the shoe, its thick cord wrapped around a male model's ankle. Mr. Dolce grabbed a rope flip-flop. "That looks more adult," Mr. Gabbana said approvingly.

Over the past 20 years, Messrs. Dolce and Gabbana have built one of the biggest and most successful men's businesses by navigating the fine line between style and fashion. "Women are into fashion, men are into style," said Mr. Dolce, in between fittings for the 20th anniversary runway collection. "Style is forever."

The difference between the two meant a striped linen jacket and a silk blouse didn't make the cut from the new collection, whose motto -- "Sensual, Sartorial, Sicilian" -- marks a return to the brand's roots. A nautical theme permeated the looks that made the cut, from the sailing rope Mr. Dolce stranded through belt loops to a rugged beige fisherman's sweater. Dolce & Gabbana's show kicks off Milan men's fashion week, which runs from June 19 to 22.

Men have more style than ever to choose from. Luxury labels from France's Hermés to American icon Ralph Lauren are opening stores dedicated to men. Nearly all of the most prominent women's fashion houses -- Gucci, Prada, Dior, Chanel, Burberry -- dress men too. Online retailer Net-a-Porter announced earlier this month it is creating a men's site, Mr. Porter, with labels such as Lanvin, Yves Saint Laurent and Balmain.
Yet with two decades of experience under its crocodile belt, precursor Dolce & Gabbana has well-established legitimacy in the booming men's segment. Half of the company's €1.2 billion in 2008 sales came from the men's collection, a balance that no other major fashion house has achieved.
"In the last 20 years, the biggest revolution has been in men's fashion collections, not women's," said Mr. Gabbana. "Now men have an outfit for work, another one for dancing, another one for going to the restaurant -- like women."
Though suits remain at its core, the label has appropriated the full range of the male wardrobe, from underwear and sportswear to pageboy caps and wingtips. "It's clothing for the weekend, the office, going out at night," said luxury-brand consultant Robert Burke. "That's been their secret because they are that customer."

In fact, with their contrasting personalities, Messrs. Dolce and Gabbana are very different customers. The tall Mr. Gabbana, 48 years old, extroverted and flashy with a large ruby stud in his ear, brings the brand its richly baroque element visible in velvet slippers and brocaded jackets. The short, bald Mr. Dolce, 52, likes muted colors -- gray, blue, black, beige -- detests prints, and refuses to wear tank tops: "I'm ashamed that I don't have big arm muscles."

Men are more interested in their looks than they let on -- a fact that the design duo understands, said Jim Moore, creative director at men's fashion magazine GQ. "Men are innately not fashion people," he said. "But there's an inner peacock and we know what looks good on us."
Yet men's fashion can at times seem more farcical even than outrageous women's trends. Three-legged trousers from designer Thom Browne and Jean-Paul Gaultier's "Monsieur" line of mascara and other makeup are far-removed from wardrobe classics such as the suit, chinos and jeans.
Dolce & Gabbana has occasionally misfired by veering too far from the classics. Oversized paisley prints and grungy flannel lacked Italian chic. A spate of body-belts in the late 90s, worn over shirts and trousers, cinched waists in a feminine way. Mr. Dolce said an early-90s hippie-inspired collection -- complete with flower power and peace signs -- strayed too far from the brand's look.

Twenty years ago, the designers were the rising stars of Italian women's fashion with their five-year old brand. Messrs. Dolce and Gabbana, who met while working in a Milan design workshop in the early 80s, dressed in cutting-edge Japanese labels Comme des Garçons and Yohji Yamamoto. (The designers were romantic as well as business partners they announced their split five years ago.) Italian men's attire -- classic suits from Brioni, Giorgio Armani, Ermenegildo Zegna -- was too staid for their urban lifestyle.

But the Japanese designers didn't fulfill all their wardrobe needs. "There were some things we couldn't find, like tighter white shirts and slimmer pants," said Mr. Gabbana, dressed in ripped jeans and a black vest.

Still, they started timidly in 1990 by tweaking the classics. Three-button suits and pageboy caps worn with a scarf recalled Mr. Dolce's upbringing as the son of a Sicilian tailor. Pleated pants were paired with white shirts or voluminous overcoats. "Not a collection tied to the trend of the moment, but all what a man would like to have in his wardrobe," the designers advocated in their show notes, citing Luchino Visconti's classic 1963 film "Il Gattopardo" as an inspiration.

They soon settled into a routine that continues to this day. Mr. Dolce pores over racks of trousers, shirts, vests and underwear, pairing and reshuffling outfits, while Mr. Gabbana sits back and comments. "He likes to sew, to alter the clothes," said Mr. Gabbana, as his partner sliced a crisp pair of white pants into shorts with five swift cuts.

Gradually, the designers branched out beyond the elements of a suit. White underwear revealed a new body-conscious trend among men. Then came jeans, long before they were acceptable office attire. By the mid-90s and the appearance of track pants and sneakers on Dolce & Gabbana's runway, heralding the casual turn men's fashion was taking, the brand had a full repertoire of apparel that spanned any occasion.
Yet Dolce & Gabbana never abandoned the suit. Mr. Dolce said he changes it each season, making it closer-cut under the arm, dropping the button to reveal more chest, shaving extra volume off the shoulders. For the 20th anniversary collection, they come hand-stitched in washed silk. "Once, the suit was worn as a uniform," he said, spare pins sticking out of his pocket. "Today you wear it because you feel good in it."

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John Varvatos FW 2010 Fashion Show

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Louis Vuitton Menswear FW 2010 at Paris Fashion Week

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How to Tie a Tie: The Full Windsor

Ermenegildo Zegna - Fall Winter 2010/2011 – Milan Fashion Show

You can purchase a Zegna men's suit at substantial savings below.

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