Dior Homme’s Understated Chic a Hit at Paris Fashion Week

Thursday, August 12th, 2010 at 5:59 pm

Without a doubt, this year’s Men’s Fashion Week in Paris was stripped of the usual decadence witnessed on the Parisian runways. Left in its place, exposed and bare, was a minimal aesthetic that replaced the usual rainbow of spring colors with tailored nudes and this year’s favorite palette of black and white.

The designers who showcased their Spring-Summer 2011 collections this June definitely proved less is more. And none better than Belgium designer Kris Van Assche of Dior. The show, appropriately entitled, “Lessness,” dressed down the silhouette to reveal luxury in sobriety. Designer Van Assche, told The Associate Press in a backstage interview that he “wanted to show less to put all the attention to quality.”

And he did just that. With the normal distractions of embellishments now removed, the focus went to the raw internal seams with linen taping and the white selvage edging on raw-edged coattails. These understated details reveal the mastery of fabric and the finesse of the ateliers, whose expert tailoring is a true synonym for luxury.

“That for me is the real luxury. It’s not about sequins anymore,” Van Assche told the AP. The hand-stitched detailing and slit pockets were his subtle version of “embellishments” that proved that luxury doesn’t mean opulence, but rather sophisticated simplicity. From black to greige — undyed and unfinished textiles, the almost colorless collection forced admiration onto the process and skill set of the master tailors rather than the indulgence of fashion. The colors of gray and midnight blue respected this design philosophy, also highlighting the rigor involved.
Pieces were modernized with the usual suspects shorn off, thus appearing in manifestations of sleeveless trench coats and blazers without closures. Lapels dissolved off blazers and fine fabrics extended as coat tails. What is remarkable is that Van Assche was able to give lessen the finishings without making the outfit appear unfinished, or worse — grunge. Instead, what came out of the dark shadows cast behind the catwalk’s centerpiece — a soaring, spiral made of thin, white fabric — was the exact opposite: It was luxury redefined.

The dramatic tension between exaggerated volume and proportions of the contemporary three-piece ensembles suggest an evolution into more modern, somber times. The presence of draped wools and silks created a sense of sensual fluidity that was contrasted with the masculine patches of bare skin revealed through deep-cut V-neck tank tops that were asymmetrically slit.

Although some fashion critics have claimed that the long sleeveless coats were reminiscent of a Japanese samurai, the look was much broader — encompassing the entire Orient. The sleeveless trench coats in black were the Saudi mishlahs reincarnated and made international. The draped white V-neck shirts made in light silks appeared like the top half of an evening thobe. The accompanying drop-crotched, voluminous pants worn with a fabric waist appeared as a chic and modern harem pant.

Chanel designer Karl Lagerfeld who, besides being the visionary photographer behind the Dior Homme ads, is also a devoted Dior Homme fan and patron, and took his usual front row seat. Lagerfeld and co. showed up in their uniformly Dior Homme suits. “Dior suits are the best made in the world — nobody does clothes like that,” praised the gloved designer, “[The collection was] very elegant.”

For great prices on Dior Homme suits and jackets view the items below.

AW08 Dior Homme 2 Button Wool Suit Sz 44 Jacket Blouson Pants Hedi Slimane
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DIOR HOMME HEDI SLIMANE SUIT As worn by Jack Osbourne

$315.28
End Date: Tuesday Feb-14-2012 12:15:53 PST

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Dior Homme Paris Navy Blue Wool Mens Suit Size 38 L 34
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vtg Christian Dior Blazer 40 R Double Breasted Grey Pour Homme Classic
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DIOR HOMME HEDI SLIMANE Gray 2 Button Suit 52 42
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DIOR HOMME Slim Fit Two Button Suit RRP 2500
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Dior Homme Dark Navy Suit sz 48 hedi slimane era excellent condition
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