From dealing with the sales guy to choosing lapels—everything you need to know about buying the perfect suit.

1. Use the salesperson to your advantage
He’ll tell you whatever you want to hear—that everything looks great on you, that the store’s tailor can fix any suit. And you can almost be guaranteed his sense of style will be different from yours. For all these reasons, you need to know as much as possible about how a suit should fit and what kind of suit you’re looking for before you walk through the door. Remember, you’re the boss, not him. If you need his/her help finding the size and style you want, do so. Remember you will most likely be able to find the same suit online for half the price.

2. Know why you’re buying a suit
Are you hunting for a suit that you’re going to wear to the office once or more a week? (If so, keep it dark and classic.) Or are you looking for a suit you’ll wear a few times a year to weddings and funerals? (Black or navy is a safe bet.) Is it a suit you’ll wear to job interviews? (If so, you want to be well dressed but not better dressed than the guy interviewing you, so nothing too pricey.) Or is it the kind you’d wear with sneakers and a T-shirt, or wear just the jacket with a pair of jeans? (Think designer, Ermenegildo Zegna, Giorgio Armani, or Canali, not Brooks Brothers or Hickey Freeman.)

3. Start at a department store but purchase online
When you’re ready to start shopping, grab a friend who won’t hesitate to provide you with a blunt opinion, and head to a store like Barneys or Saks or Bloomingdale’s. You’ll be able to view a variety of brands instead of just one. Once you’re inside, do a lap of the suit floor by yourself. See what styles are carried—what grabs your attention. Look at prices. Ask for a salesman when you’re good and ready. Now, allow the salesperson to help you find your size if necessary. Once you determined the correct size it is time to go online to the Best Designer Suit Store and save enough money to buy a second suit or a pair of shoes.

4. Know your size
It sounds obvious, but it’s not. The most crucial element of a suit is its fit, and not many sales guys understand how a suit should fit or, more specifically, how you want yours to fit. Before you step into a dressing room, get a handle on the various components of a suit…
Shoulders:
The suit’s shoulders should hug yours; shoulder pads should not protrude beyond your own shoulders. If you stand sideways against a wall and the shoulder pad touches the wall before your arm does, the suit is too big.
Chest:
You should be able to easily button the jacket without it straining. Conversely, there shouldn’t be too much space between the button and your chest—no more than a fist’s worth.
Length:
When your arms are hanging straight down, you should be able to cup your fingers under the sides of your suit jacket. However, these days, with shorter suits in style, some jackets reach only about an inch beyond the cuff of your suit sleeve.

5. Start thinking about the number of buttons
Now you need to think about the style of the suit itself. The first thing you need to consider is the number of buttons on the suit. This will determine a good deal about the cut and fit. Here are some basic pointers:
The three-button suit became the dominant look in the 1990s; it now seems to be the standard young man’s choice. Instead of opting for one of those high-cut versions, look for one with a roll-over lapel—one in which you button the middle button, encouraging the soft lapel to roll over the top button.

For years the two-button suit was the go-to conservative, Capitol Hill getup. Now every fashion label imaginable is designing two-button suits, except they’re making them more streamlined and modern. This cut is what’s most in style right now.
If you’re looking for something rakish, a bit more high-style, try a one-button suit. It’s not for everyone, but if you can pull it off, it’s a sleek look.

6. Think about the vents on the back of the suit jacketA center vent is all-purpose; it is both modern and traditional. You can’t go wrong.
Side vents are more European; a bit more suave.
A ventless jacket is just plain wrong. It says you think it’s still 1986.

7. …and the type of lapel
A notch lapel—what you see on most business suits—is the standard. You’re always safe with a notch lapel.
A peak lapel is more old-school and elegant. And now it’s enjoying a comeback with the high-fashion crowd. It makes a statement.

8. Now head to the dressing room
If you’re not wearing a dress shirt and dress shoes, ask for them; a good store should be able to hook you up. Then, find the three-way mirror and size up your suit. And not just the jacket. Consider the pants, too: They should be comfortable, and the rise (where the pants sit on your waist) shouldn’t be too high or too low for your taste. If you don’t think the pants fit right, try on another suit.

9. Know what a tailor can—and can’t—do for you
Here are the areas you should direct your tailor’s attention to:
Shoulders: If your suit doesn’t fit in the shoulders, it’s not going to fit anywhere else. Salesmen will tell you they can reduce or reshape the shoulder pads—don’t listen to them.
Pants: If the pants are an inch or so too tight or too large in the waist, a tailor can usually fix them. But if it’s more than an inch, you’re asking for trouble.
Jacket: A tailor usually will need to alter the length of the sleeves. Insist that you’d like a quarter inch of shirt cuff to show. The sides of a jacket often need tapering so they contour to your torso. And check out the collar: Many times there is a roll in the back of the suit jacket, up near your neck. A good tailor can correct this.

Any tailoring required to obtain that perfect can be done locally with funds saved by shopping online.

By Clifford Pugh

Threadwize, a consortium of owners from 10 of the nation's top family-owned clothing stores, met in Houston this week to share ideas, talk about trends and figure out ways to attract more customers in the age of giant chains and the Internet. We took the opportunity to ask them about trends in menswear (most specialize in men's clothing) and find out what style question they get asked most frequently.

What's the big trend in menswear?
1. Soft jackets would be the biggest trend. It looks like a sport coat but with not as much construction. It's meant to be worn without a tie and is mostly worn with jeans or casual trousers. — Butch Blum, owner Butch Blum, Seattle

2. Latest trends: No socks, no black shoes (I've been preaching that one for 25 years), no silk pocket squares (just cotton; usually a shirt fabric stripe or check). Wearing trousers shorter (about 2.5 inches from the floor up or shorter) with no break. No cuff on flat front cotton trousers. But always cuff on dress trousers. And make the cuff larger, like 1 and 3/4 inches. — George Bass, owner George Bass, New Orleans

3. The biggest change in menswear within the last few years (yes, sadly it takes that long for men to embrace any change) is the advent of slimmer fitting clothing and flat front trousers. This new silhouette looks fresh and modern and is an obvious way to distinguish the young and hip (chronologically or merely as a way of thinking) from the tired old establishment. Needless to say, we did the same thing with our pleated trousers and oversized jackets way back when. Dress like your grandfather = hip. Like your dad = nerd. — Dick Pattison, owner Taylor Richards & Conger, Charlotte

4. Soft jackets that are shorter, to wear with jeans or casual pants. — Greg Eveloff, owner The Clotherie, Phoenix

5. Men’s suits are definitely trending to a closer fit than they have in the past; in jackets, higher armholes, trimmer silhouette, and in pants, definitely flat front and a narrower leg. Expect to wear your trouser bottoms higher than before because of the narrower leg. Double breasted clothing is still trying to make its mark. On the other end of the spectrum (in casual wear for fall), look for cleaner denims and interesting fabrics and finishes in sportswear. Sloppy is out. (Are y’all hearing that, Houston??) There are some definite retro trends as well – references to old-fashioned jeans with belt buckles on the back, elbow patches, and HENLEYS! — Murry Penner, owner M Penner, Houston

By RAY A. SMITH

Every workday, scores of businessmen go through the motion of putting on a dark suit and tie. These men end up looking almost indistinguishable from every other guy—and that's part of the problem.
For the man who wants to stand out, but not stick out, there are ways both subtle and bold to inject personality into a suit-and-tie look without prompting gawks from the office peanut gallery.

The trick is navigating how much to push the personalization. The look must be comfortable and confident, never forced or affected. Taken too far a man risks being accused of having a mid-life crisis or becoming a slave to fashion.

Suiting Up
Popular in the big-shouldered '80s, the double-breasted suit is mounting a comeback.

"Personalizing your suit demonstrates confidence and creativity," says David Lisbon, a menswear personal shopper at Bloomingdale's Manhattan flagship store.

Men just starting their careers may see the suit-and-tie thing as restrictive, a capitulation to a future of being just another bland man in a gray flannel suit. Older men may want to add some personal flair to their old standard.

Robin Walker, a Chicago-based image strategist, says her average client is 45 to 60 years old: "They are bored wearing the same old stuff," she says. "It may be stress-free and a no-brainer but they are tired of looking at it."

At the men's fashion shows in Europe late last month, some designers showed suits accessorized with gauzy scarves, T-shirts, sandals and even shorts.
Still, a man has to know when to say what's right and what's not for him—and avoid being a slave to outré runway looks.

Often, personalizing a suit just involves small tweaks and accessories. That can mean something that isn't immediately apparent to others, like a barely there pocket square. Or a leather braided or beaded bracelet worn just above the watch, recommends Eric Jennings, men's fashion director at Saks Fifth Avenue. "When you're reaching for your glass of wine or fork, [others] will see a flash of it." Mr. Jennings says he noticed a number of men wearing such bracelets last month in Italy, where he was attending menswear shows.

Another way to personalize a suit is with a custom belt, suggests Mr. Lisbon. The Trafalgar label, for example, has a program in which shoppers choose belt color, leather type, buckle and monogram style.

When it comes to cufflinks, going whimsical and quirky is acceptable, says Mr. Lisbon, so long as the designs aren't objectionable or offensive (no pin-up girls). Cufflinks can add a hint of color and humor to a more conservative look and also reflect the wearer's off-work interests with, say, a golf motif or images of sailboats.

A pocket square is an easy way to distinguish a suit. "It's a small thing but it does speak volumes," sending the message you care about the way you present yourself, says Mr. Jennings.

"Don't get hung up on the proper way to fold it," he adds. "There is no right or wrong way." Mr. Jennings notes that the Brunello Cucinelli label showed pocket squares folded in a number of different ways at a recent trade show.

The perfect suit watch is an equal mix of conservative and trendy, says Mr. Lisbon. He recommends a Frederique Constant model that is rose gold, which is popular right now, but is otherwise understated. While it can be worn with many suits, "it just oomphs up the classic khaki suit," he says.

Ms. Walker says it's OK to be a bit adventurous with the watch, choosing one that has a bolder face or evokes a certain time period. "It means [others] will have something to talk about when they shake your hand."
Leather bracelets, called wristlets, can be worn above a watch for a personalized look. Ms. Walker says one of her clients, who is more rock'n'roll when off the clock, wears a skull and crossbones bracelet under his suit to reflect that part of his personality.

She approves. "The outside of the suit is for everybody else, the inside is for you," she says.

Double-Breasted Lite

The double-breasted suit, popular in the big-shouldered '80s, is mounting a comeback. It was all over the runways at the recent spring 2012 men's shows in Europe and the July issue of GQ featured a double-breasted suit jacket on its cover for the first time since 1998. The look can give off a yacht captain or Masters of the Universe vibe without attention to a man's accessories. One key to personalizing the double-breasted suit (Z Zegna, $1,275, above), Bloomingdale's David Lisbon says, is to invest in a newer model that's slimmed down with four buttons rather than the typical six or more. Since the jacket covers more chest than a single-breasted, adding a lot of color with the tie (Turnbull & Asser, $185) and pocket square (Duchamp, $85) is the crucial play. A briefcase bag (Salvatore Ferragamo, $990), rather than a traditional boxy briefcase, also diffuses the stuffiness.

Power Khaki

In some people's minds, a khaki suit (the Men's Store Bloomingdale's, $350) can come off as Dockers-casual. While it's less formal than a wool suit, there are ways to personalize it to hit a sweet spot between basic-dressy and sporty. One way: Ditch the tie and focus on the shirt color, says Bloomingdale's David Lisbon. This bold purple-and-white check patterned shirt (Eton, $245), makes for a sophisticated, office-appropriate look. Other company men will wear their khaki suit with a tie, so going without will appear unique in a good way. Add a simple white sneaker (Jack Purcell for Converse, $80), as opposed to an athletic sneaker, to 'make it a little bit more summery nice,' Mr. Lisbon says. For the man who's just not a sneakers-guy, he recommends a slip-on loafer in some shade of brown. Adding a sleek, soft, attaché-style brown leather bag (Jack Spade, $375) 'dresses up the suit a tad,' Mr. Lisbon adds.

Urban Southern

In the wrong hands, a seersucker suit (Hugo Boss, $795) can look like a costume from the old-timey South—one reason some men find seersucker hard to pull off. The key to owning this look is to make the warm-weather Southern fixture more urbane, starting with the shoes. 'You're taking something classic and adding edge to it with a nice brown monkstrap, with or without a sock,' says Bloomingdale's David Lisbon. The shoe (Bruno Magli, $570) also helps dress up the seersucker. A simple pocket square—seersucker already makes enough of a statement so no need to go wild—adds a touch of formality, while the slim cotton tie (The Men's Store Bloomingdale's, $59.50) keeps the look relaxed and balanced. Another modernizing accessory is a backpack (Prada, $830) with a top handle so it can be carried by hand to a meeting, without wrinkling the jacket shoulder.

The New Navy

For the man who wants to project to the wider world that he is conservative but signal to intimates that he has some style tricks up his sleeves, start with a navy suit (Canali, $1,695). Whimsical light-blue cufflinks (Jenny Knott, $350) stay in the blue family but add a pop of color that mostly will be noticed by people in direct contact with the wearer. Socks (Duchamp, $35) are another opportunity to sneak in some personal style, says Bloomingdale's David Lisbon. 'He can be very conservative on top but show personal flair on the bottom.' Mr. Lisbon recommends a tie bar, 'which adds that extra layer of sophistication.' Look for one with some texture or engraving (Burberry, $150). For shoes, Mr. Lisbon prescribes moving away from the expected lace-up with a simple loafer with a modern edge, and less of a rounded toe. A loafer (Salvatore Ferragamo, $570) also tends to be lower in the front, a better way to flash a bit of fun sock color.

After years of showing snug, skinny and even constricting clothing, some menswear designers are in a more relaxed mood. Fashion houses such as Calvin Klein Collection, Comme des Garçons and Louis Vuitton put fuller, wider cuts in their runway collections for this year, featuring baggy pleated pants and voluminous, flowing shirts and coats.

"It was the right time to change the silhouette" after seasons of tight clothing, says Italo Zucchelli, men's creative director of Calvin Klein Collection whose fall 2011 collection at New York fashion week featured full, pleated pants and oversized bomber jackets. "Sometimes it's almost like your eye is looking for something else, looking for a new direction, a new feel," he adds.

Menswear Loosens Up
After years of showing snug, close-cut clothing for men, some designers such as Calvin Klein Collection, Comme des Garçons and Louis Vuitton put fuller, wider cuts on their runways this spring, featuring baggy pleated pants and voluminous, flowing shirts and coats.
Calvin Klein Collection men's fall 2011 show at New York fashion week featured full, pleated pants and oversized bomber jackets.
Yet mainstream brands—as well as many men—have only recently gotten comfortable with the slimmer silhouettes that flooded the catwalks in recent years.

"It took us a long time to get men into flat-front pants," says Nickelson Wooster, men's fashion director at Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman. "I don't think either the customers or the stores are ready to throw that away."
With fitted clothing still selling well, retailers see the new silhouette as a look for the fashion-forward, at least initially. While Bergdorf Goodman now carries long, drapey T-shirts from Rick Owens and plans to carry pleated trousers from Dries Van Noten, Mr. Wooster says it will take a while for fuller looks to reach regular guys.

In menswear, "the pace of change is glacial," he says. "As more men see more images of newer fits, then over time, their eyes will adjust."
For some designers, however, the shift is sharp. Even lines like Dior Homme and Thom Browne, once poster children for supernarrow, body-hugging silhouettes, have been adding more wiggle room to their clothes.

Mr. Browne says he likes to play with classic looks' silhouettes and proportions "to make them not so classic." For fall 2011, that meant some baggy pants, including roomy jodhpurs, on the runways. Dior Homme started getting baggier last spring.

Mr. Wooster cites designer Tom Ford as a key influence on the emerging silhouette. Mr. Ford, he says, "has proposed a more aggressive clothing model that has a bigger shoulder, wider lapel and a longer jacket." Tom Ford's latest collection also includes pleated pants.

The looser look may come as a relief to many of the men who squeezed themselves into slim-cut pants and shirts in recent seasons. Karl Lagerfeld wrote in a 2004 book that he was motivated to lose some 90-odd pounds in 13 months in part by the desire to fit into Dior Homme's skinny clothing.
But before men rejoice, style experts say, they should consider that baggy pleated pants aren't as forgiving as men think. "You have to be tall, you have to be in shape" to pull them off, says Mr. Zucchelli of Calvin Klein. "They're not for everybody," including, he says, himself.
Mr. Wooster concurs. "I think flat-front trousers always look cleanest, regardless of body type."

Men who still want to cling to tighter styles don't have to worry. Prada and Versace are among the labels sticking to closer-fitting clothes. Even Mr. Browne isn't completely abandoning his signature look. And the exaggerated runway looks may not be as wide and full when the clothes actually reach stores.

At Saks Fifth Avenue, the relaxed silhouette and pleated pants will show up "in our advanced designer area," said Eric Jennings, men's fashion director. But this is "a specific niche audience in only a handful of locations across the country."

Still, he noted one more constituency for pleated pants. "We'll still have some pleats for our traditional, conservative customer who never really switched to flat-front trousers in the first place."

Preppy versus bohemian; those were the two main looks fighting for supremacy at the men’s shows in New York.

Squaring up in the preppy corner were Calvin Klein, Antonio Azzuolo, Billy Reid and hipster label Band of Outsiders. The most applauded show of the season was Calvin Klein, where designer Italo Zucchelli’s use of waffle materials and puffed-up tweeds enhanced the models’ air of authority, while exaggerated blousons and padded trench coats gave the consummate alpha male on display a cartoonish superhero twist.

Blazers in bouclé wool and Linton tweed appeared at Antonio Azzuolo’s French take on the preppy theme, which was inspired by the Seeberger Brothers’ early 20th-century photos of smart French resorts. In spite of the label’s non-conformist name, Band of Outsiders’ show evoked wholesome university graduates in college scarves, Native American-inspired graphic cardigans and wool blanket coats.

Another strike for the preppy gang came from Billy Reid, a southern gent who won the Best New Menswear Designer in America award last year before scooping the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund prize. He gave his gents a rugged masculine air with dinner jackets in undyed velvet and waxy leather pea coats worn over construction boots that were soiled but still polished.

Meanwhile, Andrew Buckler, Richard Chai and John Varvatos flew the flag for a more bohemian approach.
Andrew Buckler’s boys strutted out on to the snow-streaked SoHo street where he staged his show wearing floppy necked T-shirts, rock star-like mechanic boots, yellow leggings and oversized cardigans with hoods, recalling the painters and sculptors who used to inhabit this neighbourhood.
If Buckler’s catwalk character also had a posh attitude, taking meetings with his agent in sleek double-breasted jackets and canary yellow parkas, happening designer Richard Chai imagined someone with such a bohemian disregard for convention that they might wear a dressing gown to a restaurant. Think pyjama tops with crisp pants and cardigans and long-john leggings with shiny nylon coats. For fringes-of-society-chic, there was John Varvatos and his artful dodger-style frayed suits and great bashed-up Dickensian wingtip boots with khaki cloth sides, while slightly wrecked jeans are still de rigueur at Buckler, Varvatos and Ralph Lauren.

At Tommy Hilfiger and Lauren, however, the lines between these two dominating concepts were more blurred. Lauren, the ultimate establishment brand, launched a whole new range of rugged jeans called Black Label Denim. Although brand new, they looked as if artists in Brooklyn bedsits had worn them in over a couple of years. Tommy Hilfiger, who already has a collection entitled Prep World, also mixed up the opposing ideas with a show he called “Indie Prep” after “the meeting of indie rocker and college preppy”. Staged in West Village restaurant The Lion – decorated like a Pall Mall private members’ club with panelling and quirky prints – the show also featured the key outerwear of the American season – the big blanket coat, ideally in broad horizontal stripes. After a bitter winter left every street corner in Manhattan covered in black ice, perhaps it’s little wonder that designers created something so cozy.
It wasn’t until a rather quirky event entitled “The Ultimate Dream Date”, however, that the winner of the sartorial battle was clear. Financed by toymaker Mattel, the show involved designers such as Billy Reid, Simon Spurr, Yigal Azrouel and Michael Bastian creating a range of clothes for Barbie’s “beau” Ken. The result – a college-boy array of New England beach shorts and sailing sweaters with miniature Scottish and American flags and even a wool tam o’ shanter – was a deciding blow for the preppy crew.

By Jason Chow

New York Fashion Week has just ended and you’re a stylish guy but… well, who has time to keep on top of it all? A fashion-week primer should fit nicely.
First of all, a lesson on timing: New York Fashion Week, which showcases the next autumn/winter season, is regarded as the kickoff to the year for the entire fashion industry. But men’s and women’s fashion don’t adhere to the same schedules. Menswear-only fashion shows took place in Milan and Paris in January, before the men’s shows in New York. At least in this case, men are ahead of their opposite sex when it comes to clothes.
Before we discuss the trends, remember that sticking to the classics is still the best way to build a wardrobe. What you see on the runway is not necessarily what you should wear every day.

Nevertheless, there are some fashion week trends worth noting:
Double-breasted everything: Spot it on almost all types of coats in all kinds of shapes. Casual, unlined sports jackets for the weekends and short, barely waist-length wool coats for colder climes.

Chunky turtlenecks: Sweaters with collars that will make your neck as wide as Mike Tyson’s were all over the runways, including at shows by N. Hoolywood and Tommy Hilfiger. Designers were perhaps inspired by the extreme snow and cold of the New York winter. These were even matched with blazers—often double-breasted ones, of course.

Wider pants: The moment for skinny jeans has now finally passed, and it’s time for your legs to breathe more freely again. Of course, what you will gain in comfort, you’ll lose in clean, angular lines. We’re not yet at the stage where parachute pants are set for a comeback. But during New York Fashion Week, the Calvin Klein show proved that even a brand that has stood by the sharp, skinny suit for the past decade is cutting guys a bit of slack around the leg with some pants that were as baggy as a pair of fleece sweat pants.

US Auctions Australian Auctions Austrian Auctions Belgian Auctions Canadian Auctions French Auctions German Auctions Irish Auctions Italian Auctions Dutch Auctions Spanish Auctions Swiss Auctions GB Auctions

Best Match Items Ending First Newly-Listed Items First Price + Shipping: Lowest First Price + Shipping: Highest First

NEW NWT Gorgeous Christian Dior mens brown double breated wool suit sz 42S 32X27
	$139.99 End Date: Saturday Feb-11-2012 18:28:26 PST Buy It Now for only: $139.99 Buy It Now

Mens Jones New York suit houndstooth double breated sport coat 44 Pants 32 x 29
	$30.00 End Date: Sunday Feb-12-2012 20:36:07 PST Buy It Now for only: $30.00 Buy It Now

Authentic Martin Margiela 14 Double Breated Wool Suit US 38 EU 48
	$700.00 End Date: Saturday Feb-18-2012 14:14:07 PST Buy It Now for only: $700.00 Buy It Now

US Auctions Australian Auctions Austrian Auctions Belgian Auctions Canadian Auctions French Auctions German Auctions Irish Auctions Italian Auctions Dutch Auctions Spanish Auctions Swiss Auctions GB Auctions

Best Match Items Ending First Newly-Listed Items First Price + Shipping: Lowest First Price + Shipping: Highest First

ISW Nwt 591 Rene Lezard Silk Rayon Sport Jacket 40R 40 R
	$35.00 End Date: Wednesday Feb-8-2012 10:17:44 PST Buy It Now for only: $35.00 Buy It Now

Mens KASPER Designer Jacket Coat 42L Double Breasted Wool Nice Green
	$14.99 End Date: Wednesday Feb-8-2012 11:43:01 PST Bid now

7250 Rare KITON Napoli Gray Pure Cashmere DB Jacket NEW EU 50 US 38 40
	$1,690.00 End Date: Wednesday Feb-8-2012 12:01:04 PST Buy It Now for only: $1,690.00 Buy It Now

Pierre Cardin mens double breasted sport coat blazer suit jacket 50 52L
	$9.99 End Date: Wednesday Feb-8-2012 12:06:03 PST Bid now

Airforce Blue Double Breasted Jacket
	$6.99 End Date: Wednesday Feb-8-2012 12:28:57 PST Buy It Now for only: $6.99 Buy It Now

YVES ST LAURANT BLAZER 39R SHARP FROM FRANCE
	$44.95 End Date: Wednesday Feb-8-2012 13:00:49 PST Buy It Now for only: $44.95 Buy It Now

JOHNNY BENCH mens sz 39R W33 Double Breasted Black pinstripe Sport Coat Blazer
	$27.60 End Date: Wednesday Feb-8-2012 13:14:23 PST Buy It Now for only: $27.60 Buy It Now

New RALPH LAUREN Purple Label Linen Cotton Navy Coat Jacket 42 42R NWT 3K
	$649.95 End Date: Wednesday Feb-8-2012 13:17:54 PST Buy It Now for only: $649.95 Buy It Now

« Previous12345...1213Next »

By Godfrey Deeny

Think of it as the rebirth of neo-realist style: last week at the Milan autumn/winter 2011 men’s wear shows, Italian designers seemed to have decided, almost as an industry, that their future lies in creating practical clothes for successful global travellers. The result was a parade of what may have been the most utilitarian collections since the turn of the millennium.

Tomas Maier, creative director of Bottega Veneta, summed up the mood when he explained he was thinking of “a man who has to have clothes that look right and work functionally as soon as he walks off a plane anywhere.” Hence his jerseys with deliberately misplaced stitching or slim-line suits finished like expressionist paintings, all meant to create a polished yet quirky effect.

And where he led, many other designers followed, though the travellers they had in mind ranged widely over datelines.
Giorgio Armani, for example, entitled his signature line “Remix in Gray” and saturated the show in that go-anywhere of hues, including his nattiest look: a pale gray chalk stripe semi-double-breasted combo (“semi” because all the buttons were hidden). For Emporio Armani, however, he opted to go east, putting model Paolo Roldan, of Philippine descent, in a beige swing coat as a reminder of the country whose avid consumers have been pulling

Italian fashion out of the recession: China – also the inspiration for the Ermenegildo Zegna show.

Indeed, Zegna went so far as to use James Lima, visual consultant for the film Avatar, to create a Chinese backdrop out of which the models emerged sporting silk dress shirts and tuxedos composed of prints taken from ancient Chinese murals.

“China is not just a huge new market, it’s the central project of our generation in men’s fashion,” said Gildo Zegna, whose family business ended 2010 with 70 stores in China, and plans to open 10 more each year for the foreseeable future.

Not that it was all overt Asian influence; technology was key to Z Zegna, with designer Alessandro Sartori using a technique called “needle punch knit” (material bonded with micro stitching that doesn’t perforate the exterior) in striking leather/cashmere jackets held together with Velcro.

Meanwhile, at Jil Sander, designer Raf Simons looked north to Britain, with lean Scottish crofter woollen suits jazzed up in buttery salmons, metallic oranges and bright lichen colours; ditto Prada, where Miuccia Prada’s most memorable innovation involved Argyle diamond-printed lurex knee socks. It was an unlikely look for an airplane-to-meeting adventure, but more globally accessible were Prada’s smart new trousers, tapered at the ankle and dropped at the crotch; not to mention Burberry’s sculpted coats with arms and torso panelled in curly rabbit; and sensational Aran sweater finished in strips of ecru mink.

Yet fur, in the form of mongolian sheepskin, also trimmed many coats at Alexander McQueen, where designer Sarah Burton was working on an imperial sportswear concept with rockin’ versions of hussar jackets and bright red guards coats worn over light felt leggings with military stripes. As for Gucci, creative director Frida Giannini’s collection was based on Scottish rocker Rod Stewart. Thus, though the runway was devoid of tartan, Stewart’s rascal look was apparent in the models’ mop top hair, flared pants and nipped-in, wide lapel jackets, not to mention a putty gray trench coat and alligator blazer.

Coincidentally, Jimmy Choo also seemed to be thinking along the same UK-rocker lines in its first men’s shoe collection – witness a pair of slippers entitled Porno Paisley – as was Versace, where new designer Martyn Bal took the brand back to the era of the Clash with checkboard redingotes, leather top coats with felt lapels, and posh punk sweaters.

By contrast, British designers Michael Herz and Graeme Fidler, in their collection for Bally, chose to return to the brand’s functional Swiss roots via lace-up Birbur mountain boots and outerwear in bonded deer skin. And Tod’s popped over to the US, presenting its hyper-practical classic modern footwear, including an ergonomic take on the country boot.

Also in America was Dolce & Gabbana, with pock-marked denim in their main line, and “social network chic” – preppy combos of striped sneakers, check pants, and rowing colours – in D&G, all paired with mega-bright Americana images, such as Mickey Mouse or an “Enjoy Coca Cola” sign emblazoned on a pink wool felt jacket.

“Men nowadays see so much stuff on the web, and if a designer doesn’t reflect that in their collections, they are not being contemporary,” observed Stefano Gabbana – a fitting epigraph for the week.

Giorgio Armani is a fashion icon. He is known in particular for his menswear although as many of his peers have done, he has branched out into other areas.

For the most part Armani adheres to simpler designs and patterns, and for this reason his men’s ties have become classics which never go out of style.

There’s a reason why Armani is one of the top fashion brands in the world. And that it is because of designer and founder Giorgio Armani. And when asked about hiring new breed of fashion designers for the fashion house, the 76-year-old explained that he is happy with the way things are and added that when changed need to be mane, it is better to have someone who already works for the firm take over.

One of Armani’s tenets is for a designer to be true to themselves and their philosophy. Unfortunately many people dabble in a variety of areas without a vision or sense of self, and in the end lack the consistency that Armani has attained over the years.
But that doesn’t mean that we have seen the last of this genius’ work, because he has no intention of standing down from his fashion house soon.
He said, “I want to go out and run my company with the people that I have. This is a company that is going into the future with whatever changes and evolutions are needed. If you put in a different design talent, say someone spectacular like Galliano, it wouldn’t be Armani anymore.”
That is why Giorgio is working hard to make people who work at Armani understand his aesthetics. And he is very happy that it is working and is very proud of everything the company has achieved.

In his interview with British Vogue, “I have to make those around me understand the style of Armani. I find it absurd, the idea of putting someone in place who will undo everything I have done in the last 20 years. It would be such a shame when one has built something with such care.”

Add a touch of Giorgio Armani to your wardrobe today!

US Auctions Australian Auctions Austrian Auctions Belgian Auctions Canadian Auctions French Auctions German Auctions Irish Auctions Italian Auctions Dutch Auctions Spanish Auctions Swiss Auctions GB Auctions

Best Match Items Ending First Newly-Listed Items First Price + Shipping: Lowest First Price + Shipping: Highest First

MENS GIORGIO ARMANI LUXURY SUIT UK 36R W32 X L33
	$79.35 (1 Bid) End Date: Wednesday Feb-8-2012 11:11:35 PST Bid now

2395 Armani Collezioni Black on Black Stripe Super 150s Business Suit 44L
	$635.26 End Date: Wednesday Feb-8-2012 11:23:28 PST Buy It Now for only: $635.26 Buy It Now

MENS STUNNING GIORGIO ARMANI LE COLLEZIONI DESIGNER SUIT 40 W36 L295
	$65.06 (1 Bid) End Date: Wednesday Feb-8-2012 12:08:14 PST Bid now

Mens Giorgio Armani Vintage Suit size 44 54
	$99.99 End Date: Wednesday Feb-8-2012 12:25:07 PST Buy It Now for only: $299.99 Buy It Now | Bid now

Mens 1200 Armani Collezioni Black Double Breasted Suit Size 44 54 L
	$99.99 End Date: Wednesday Feb-8-2012 12:25:27 PST Buy It Now for only: $299.99 Buy It Now | Bid now

2395 Armani Collezioni Gray Windowpane Business Suit 40R
	$635.26 End Date: Wednesday Feb-8-2012 13:54:53 PST Buy It Now for only: $635.26 Buy It Now

EMPORIO ARMANI SIZE 42 COTTON RAYON SUIT
	$10.00 (1 Bid) End Date: Wednesday Feb-8-2012 13:59:20 PST Bid now

EMPORIO ARMANI SIZE 42 linen SUIT
	$22.00 (4 Bids) End Date: Wednesday Feb-8-2012 14:01:44 PST Bid now

« Previous12345...1213Next »

While reading an international daily a few months back, I chanced upon an advertisement for Brioni. I was pleasantly surprised to find a distinguished-looking male model in a handsome suit side by side with an equally elegant-looking female model wearing a perfectly tailored dress-and-jacket ensemble that exuded timeless femininity and grace. I wasn’t aware that Brioni also had a women’s line, so when I found out they opened a flagship store in Ginza in May, I had to have a look-see; I contacted the gracious head of PR for Brioni-Tokyo and got a lowdown on the label.

Brioni is a fashion brand that is synonymous with unparalleled luxury; it reigns supreme in men’s clothing and is distinguished by impeccably cut and elegantly tailored suits in the finest of fabrics. Their long-standing tradition of creating only the best in men’s fashion remains unchanged, 65 years after their first atelier opened in Rome on Via Barberini.

Brioni is named after the Istrian Island frequented by the most exclusive European jetsetters in the first decades of the 20th century. The fashion house was the brainchild of a tailor from Penne named Nazareno Fonticoli and a businessman from Umbria by the name of Gaetano Savini. Their combined love of elegance and an enterprising spirit brought Italy’s top-class tailoring to the forefront of international fashion.

Headed by Andrea Perrone, grandson of Gaetano Savini, the descendants of the founding families of the brand manage the business and are just as committed to maintaining Brioni’s unrivaled position in the luxury tailoring and lifestyle market.

A Stitch at a Time
The creativity involved in realizing a Brioni garment is close to an art form. It takes about 18 to 22 hours to create one suit; 220 steps equate to 440 hands working on one piece of clothing. Every worker is dedicated to only one phase, with 80 workers assigned to ironing alone. Depending on the design and type of construction required, 5,000 to 7,000 stitches are hand-sewn to each jacket; every sewing phase is followed by ironing, then by a “precise resting” phase that varies according to the fabric and the garment’s geographic and climatic destination.

Fabrics are strictly inspected to ensure that they have the fundamental elasticity. Silk, mohair, linen, cotton and gabardine are subject to modification so as to consistently guarantee the best possible movement and the proper, comfortable fit of each piece of clothing. Each fabric is then matched with a particular type of lining, 50 available varieties in all. Along the way, numerous intermediate inspections take place, especially after the article is pressed. Each garment is given several hours to rest and is checked for any reaction that might affect the finish and if there is one, appropriate modification automatically follows.

Today, the Brioni brand rests in the hands of 400 master tailors and a total of 1,650 employees. Truly, no other brand exemplifies the exquisite craftsmanship of “Made in Italy” than Brioni.

Quest for Perfection
Made-to-measure tailoring is one of Brioni’s most traditional and satisfying rituals; it is also the epitome of exclusivity. Brioni has established an exclusive service that provides their clients from all over the world access to their master tailors. These master tailors travel the globe 90 days out of a year, paying personal visits to their clients and providing them with one-of-a kind, specially crafted clothing with the perfect fit. They travel not only to a client’s city but also the client’s world; they learn about his taste, aesthetic approach, cultural background, lifestyle and psychological component and integrate them into the client’s final wardrobe choice.

Seven generations of master tailors have already been trained by the Nazareno Fonticoli School of Tailoring founded in 1985 in Penne, Abruzzo, to continue the tradition of Italian tailoring; the school cultivates the talents of dedicated young students through a four-year course on traditional tailoring followed by a one-year apprenticeship in modern manufacturing techniques at Brioni.

More than Just Clothes
Unknown too many, even before lifestyle became a byword in the fashion industry, Brioni was already fully embracing the concept. The brand is responsible for the first Italian polo club established in 1924 and has since organized a number of Brioni Polo Classic competitions. The fashion house keeps a small Polo collection for both players and fans of the sport — gentlemen and experts who share a passion for this ancient, virile and unrivaled sport.

In 2005, Brioni partnered with The Four Seasons Hotel-Milan to create “Suite Brioni,” a haven on the top floor of the hotel. Located a short distance from its Milanese headquarters, the hotel suites were created by Brioni architects and interior designers in a style that reflects the atmosphere of an intimate apartment, a refuge that comforts, delights and soothes. One-of-a-kind pieces like the Louis-Philippe armchair irreverently updated in contemporary fabric, Syrian silver tables, Empire armchairs in horsehair and a bassorilievo by cabinet-maker Giuseppe Amato fill the suites.

You too can wear a Brioni suit or a Brioni sport coat. Check the prices below and I think you will be surprised at how affordable many of their suits and jackets are when discounted.

US Auctions Australian Auctions Austrian Auctions Belgian Auctions Canadian Auctions French Auctions German Auctions Irish Auctions Italian Auctions Dutch Auctions Spanish Auctions Swiss Auctions GB Auctions

Best Match Items Ending First Newly-Listed Items First Price + Shipping: Lowest First Price + Shipping: Highest First

Recent 4695 BRIONI Lighter Gray Wool Suit Athletic Cut Slim 44 L
	$600.00 End Date: Wednesday Feb-8-2012 14:32:50 PST Buy It Now for only: $600.00 Buy It Now

NWT 5775 BRIONI Handmade Olive Green Side Vent Superfine Wool Suit 48 R L
	$1,495.00 End Date: Wednesday Feb-8-2012 16:23:47 PST Buy It Now for only: $1,495.00 Buy It Now

Mens Brioni 46R 100 Wool Staple Gray 2 Button Double Vented Made in Italy Suit
	$300.00 End Date: Wednesday Feb-8-2012 16:43:06 PST Buy It Now for only: $400.00 Buy It Now | Bid now

Mens Brioni 46R 100 Wool Staple Gray 2 Button Double Vented Made in Italy Suit
	$300.00 End Date: Wednesday Feb-8-2012 16:45:49 PST Buy It Now for only: $400.00 Buy It Now | Bid now

Sharp BRIONI Olive Tone on Tone Stripe 2 Button Suit EU 48 US 38 S 31 X 26
	$99.00 End Date: Wednesday Feb-8-2012 17:10:53 PST Bid now

GORGEOUS BLACK BRIONI BLAZER RARE 41 SIZE
	$314.99 End Date: Wednesday Feb-8-2012 17:56:22 PST Buy It Now for only: $314.99 Buy It Now

BRIONI 2010 Charcoal Gray Pinstripe Super 150s Luxury 2B Suit 44R
	$1,095.00 End Date: Wednesday Feb-8-2012 18:32:42 PST Buy It Now for only: $1,095.00 Buy It Now

4500 NEW BRIONI MEDIUM GRAY 3 BUTTON SUIT 42L 42 L
	$1,209.99 End Date: Thursday Feb-9-2012 10:10:12 PST Buy It Now for only: $1,500.00 Buy It Now | Bid now

« Previous12345...1213Next »

Without a doubt, this year’s Men’s Fashion Week in Paris was stripped of the usual decadence witnessed on the Parisian runways. Left in its place, exposed and bare, was a minimal aesthetic that replaced the usual rainbow of spring colors with tailored nudes and this year’s favorite palette of black and white.

The designers who showcased their Spring-Summer 2011 collections this June definitely proved less is more. And none better than Belgium designer Kris Van Assche of Dior. The show, appropriately entitled, “Lessness,” dressed down the silhouette to reveal luxury in sobriety. Designer Van Assche, told The Associate Press in a backstage interview that he “wanted to show less to put all the attention to quality.”

And he did just that. With the normal distractions of embellishments now removed, the focus went to the raw internal seams with linen taping and the white selvage edging on raw-edged coattails. These understated details reveal the mastery of fabric and the finesse of the ateliers, whose expert tailoring is a true synonym for luxury.

“That for me is the real luxury. It’s not about sequins anymore,” Van Assche told the AP. The hand-stitched detailing and slit pockets were his subtle version of “embellishments” that proved that luxury doesn’t mean opulence, but rather sophisticated simplicity. From black to greige — undyed and unfinished textiles, the almost colorless collection forced admiration onto the process and skill set of the master tailors rather than the indulgence of fashion. The colors of gray and midnight blue respected this design philosophy, also highlighting the rigor involved.
Pieces were modernized with the usual suspects shorn off, thus appearing in manifestations of sleeveless trench coats and blazers without closures. Lapels dissolved off blazers and fine fabrics extended as coat tails. What is remarkable is that Van Assche was able to give lessen the finishings without making the outfit appear unfinished, or worse — grunge. Instead, what came out of the dark shadows cast behind the catwalk’s centerpiece — a soaring, spiral made of thin, white fabric — was the exact opposite: It was luxury redefined.

The dramatic tension between exaggerated volume and proportions of the contemporary three-piece ensembles suggest an evolution into more modern, somber times. The presence of draped wools and silks created a sense of sensual fluidity that was contrasted with the masculine patches of bare skin revealed through deep-cut V-neck tank tops that were asymmetrically slit.

Although some fashion critics have claimed that the long sleeveless coats were reminiscent of a Japanese samurai, the look was much broader — encompassing the entire Orient. The sleeveless trench coats in black were the Saudi mishlahs reincarnated and made international. The draped white V-neck shirts made in light silks appeared like the top half of an evening thobe. The accompanying drop-crotched, voluminous pants worn with a fabric waist appeared as a chic and modern harem pant.

Chanel designer Karl Lagerfeld who, besides being the visionary photographer behind the Dior Homme ads, is also a devoted Dior Homme fan and patron, and took his usual front row seat. Lagerfeld and co. showed up in their uniformly Dior Homme suits. “Dior suits are the best made in the world — nobody does clothes like that,” praised the gloved designer, “[The collection was] very elegant.”

For great prices on Dior Homme suits and jackets view the items below.

US Auctions Australian Auctions Austrian Auctions Belgian Auctions Canadian Auctions French Auctions German Auctions Irish Auctions Italian Auctions Dutch Auctions Spanish Auctions Swiss Auctions GB Auctions

Best Match Items Ending First Newly-Listed Items First Price + Shipping: Lowest First Price + Shipping: Highest First

Dior Homme 46 36 Black Hedi Slimane Margiela Jil Sander Blazer 2100 S S 04
	$499.00 (1 Bid) End Date: Wednesday Feb-8-2012 13:29:46 PST Bid now

Dior Homme 46 36 Black Hedi Slimane Margiela Jil Sander Blazer 1900 F W 05
	$499.00 (1 Bid) End Date: Wednesday Feb-8-2012 13:34:50 PST Bid now

AW08 Dior Homme 2 Button Wool Suit Sz 44 Jacket Blouson Pants Hedi Slimane
	$1,749.99 End Date: Saturday Feb-11-2012 17:10:47 PST Buy It Now for only: $1,749.99 Buy It Now

DIOR HOMME HEDI SLIMANE SUIT As worn by Jack Osbourne
	$315.87 End Date: Tuesday Feb-14-2012 12:15:53 PST Bid now

Dior Homme Paris Navy Blue Wool Mens Suit Size 38 L 34
	$625.00 End Date: Tuesday Feb-14-2012 13:01:35 PST Buy It Now for only: $625.00 Buy It Now

vtg Christian Dior Blazer 40 R Double Breasted Grey Pour Homme Classic
	$34.99 End Date: Tuesday Feb-14-2012 21:18:49 PST Buy It Now for only: $59.99 Buy It Now | Bid now

DIOR HOMME HEDI SLIMANE Gray 2 Button Suit 52 42
	$999.99 End Date: Monday Feb-20-2012 19:56:38 PST Buy It Now for only: $999.99 Buy It Now

DIOR HOMME Slim Fit Two Button Suit RRP 2500
	$1,249.98 End Date: Monday Feb-27-2012 23:49:00 PST Buy It Now for only: $1,249.98 Buy It Now

« Previous12Next »