A successful investment-banker in a sharp Italian suit, a lawyer about town in an elegant two-piece affair, a politician on television in a formal suit-and-tie: all these members of the male species depend on their suiting and style to gain them standing and instant respect in their public life. Wearing an impeccably tailored suit is already a statement of affluence and impeccable taste, while the cut and style speak volumes about the wearer even before a single word is spoken.

The suit became commonplace in late 17th Century France. Louis XIV, the ultimate emperor of style led the charge towards a more casual and comfortable attire for men during his 72-year reign, shifting the style of male clothing from the doublet, hose, and cloak, the fundamentals of a man’s wardrobe, to coats, vests, and breeches – the three predecessors of modern male attire.
Suits are the ultimate business statement making an impression at interviews, in boardrooms, during cocktails and formal dinners. Why? A suit is still seen as a way to gain respectability and a man wearing a well-fitted stylish suit means business.

Picking the best suit for you.
1. You need at least one fantastic suit in your wardrobe. If you don’t have much money then probably the one item to make a large one off investment in is your jacket. Don’t feel shy spending at least $500 for a great suit – even more if you can afford it. Then substitute it with a couple more light-weight suits and jackets in the $200-$400 range to help mix things up.

2. Always make sure your suits and shirts fit well around the collar. Don’t buy oversized collars; they come across as slack and lazy. And too tight, well, we all need to breathe now don’t we??

3. Some men can easily mix patterns, suits, stripes, loud pocket kerchiefs, silky shiny materials, hats, tophats, and blinged up cufflinks. Some cannot!! It’s important to find the style that suits your personality, fits your career (bling in a conservative law firm certainly won’t go down that well!) and helps you ease forward in the game of life.

4. Ties are the one accessory for men that can really be personalised and allow you to express yourself and add some color and diversity. Ties can be suited up or dressed down with jeans and a white shirt (open top button and loose knot). Wander into second stores to dig up some classic and vivid ties with vibe and spirit, and perhaps spend a bit more on some nice new (perhaps black or red) versatile ties.

5. Find the right fit for our body:
* If you’re a big guy: Remember there are more of you to love, so wear your bulk with pride. Wear lightweight, suits built from heavier textiles will only add weight. Soft, worsted wools are your best friend. Choose darker colors which give desired slimming factor plus they’re classy and classic. If you’re going to stripe it, make it a solid vertical to create a sleek, slender visual. The jacket: Two buttons are optimal – they won’t draw attention to your bulky frame and stay single on the vent, which will give you the extra room you need minus the extra attention.

* If you’re tall and very lean, add weight with heavier fabrics – on a tall, skinny guy, lightweight fabrics will hang and make you look all the more frail. Heavier wools like tweed or a heavier weight worsted wool that hold their form is the smart decision; and give you much-needed proportion and the appearance of additional weight. Colors – opt for the greys and classic browns – Lighter colors; will add weight to your overall look. I a jacket, three buttons create height and length. Tall men, with their longer torsos, can pull this look off successfully. Keep it classy with the single vent – Although taller, slimmer men have two options for the vent: we advise that you stick with a single-vent or ventless jacket which is always the classier choice.

* If you’re slight and shorter than average avoid loud patterns – The print of an overly bold pattern screams for attention and will only draw attention to your slight frame. Subdued, chilled out colours and small stripes, if any, will be far more stylish for you. Stripes – For shorter men, the next best thing to a shoe with a higher sole is a suit with vertical stripes. As stripes run top to bottom, they tend to draw the eye upward. Plus, they also lengthen your frame by elongating the look of the suit; giving you the illusion of appearing taller than you really are. Go for double vents – Small guys, the double-vent jacket was created with you in mind. The dual slits (or vents) along the side emphasize the outside lines of the body; in doing so, they establish an attractive, longer silhouette that complements and lengthens your frame.
The Bespoke Suit: These are custom made by a tailor from a pattern created entirely from the client’s measurements, giving the best-fit and free choice of fabric. Some of the most expensive suits in the world are painstakingly hand made by an increasingly scarce breed of extremely skilled tailors. These tailors know how to make suits that hide physical flaws and highlight attributes, without sacrificing comfort. Machine use is minimal, and each and every nuance of a client’s spoken and unspoken needs are met and often exceeded. Brioni, Attolini, Kiton, Luigi Borelli and Caraceni are some of the best known names in Italian bespoke suits. Some of the world’s most expensive suits are the Kiton K50s exclusively tailored by Senor D’Orsi, one of the finest tailors in the world. He makes not more than 50 suits in a year, each costing up to 50,000 USD. The fabrics used on a bespoke suit are usually the best, mostly worsted wool for business suits. These fabrics are used in the counts of 80’s and 90’s, or super 100’s, super 150’s and higher. The counts in the range of 80’s and 90’s also feel great and usually last longer than higher counts made at even the best clothing manufacturers. For those who can afford it, a bespoke suit made in the super 150’s fabric can be an absolute asset. It feels fabulously comfortable to wear and looks even better.

Made-to-Measure Men’s Suits:
Not every one is privileged enough to get a bespoke suit made, but there is a range of suits which is nearly as good. With made-to-measure suits, (a pre-made pattern modified to fit the client, with a limited selection of options and fabrics is available) it is possible to achieve a degree of customization because the tailor takes up to 25 measurements of an individual body, and these are then sent to the factory. Here, alterations are made to already available basic patterns in order to achieve the best fit possible. Special requests like extra pockets, specific fabrics and linings, and a certain design and style can be accommodated. Some of the best fabrics, threads and interlinings are used, which helps guarantee a quality suit. But the production is assembly line, and many tailors work on the suit at different stages of production, unlike the single tailor for the bespoke suit. Ermenegildo Zegna su Misura does some of the best fittings in the made-to-measure industry. A good deal of technology goes into the making of these suits and their fabrics. Some Zegna suits use fabrics like Micronsphere which has all the great qualities of worsted but is also stain-resistant, or Cashco, which is a blend of cashmere and cotton, making it an all-weather fabric.

Off-the-peg Designer Men’s Suits:
Though these cost about half that of a good made-to-measure Italian suit, they are still worth the money. The first and foremost advantage is speed, no agonizing fittings and long waits for the suit to get ready, and if chosen carefully, an off-the-peg suit from Prada, Armani, Versace or Gucci fits quite well and is unbeatable for casual elegance and comfort. The trick is to shop around for the right size, cut and look. What is more, off-the-peg suits are good for those who are looking for variations and for different types of fabrics and styles. The beauty of an off-the-peg designer suit lies in its ability to change from season to season, and to bring in a hint of casual flair to the conservative world of men’s business clothing.

Ready to Wear:
These suits are mass produced, least expensive and most common. You’ll find them in department stores and are an option for the budget conscious shopper. If you’re diligent in shopping carefully and following the tips above on getting the best fit for you, these suits may allow you to look suitably elegant in business attire and save your pocket at the same time.

A successful investment-banker in a sharp Italian suit, a lawyer about town in an elegant two-piece affair, a politician on television in a formal suit-and-tie: all these members of the male species depend on their suiting and style to gain them standing and instant respect in their public life. Wearing an impeccably tailored suit is already a statement of affluence and impeccable taste, while the cut and style speak volumes about the wearer even before a single word is spoken.

The suit became commonplace in late 17th Century France. Louis XIV, the ultimate emperor of style led the charge towards a more casual and comfortable attire for men during his 72-year reign, shifting the style of male clothing from the doublet, hose, and cloak, the fundamentals of a man’s wardrobe, to coats, vests, and breeches – the three predecessors of modern male attire.
Suits are the ultimate business statement making an impression at interviews, in boardrooms, during cocktails and formal dinners. Why? A suit is still seen as a way to gain respectability and a man wearing a well-fitted stylish suit means business.

So how do you pick the best suit for you?

1. You need at least one fantastic suit in your wardrobe. If you don’t have much money then probably the one item to make a large one off investment in is your jacket. Don’t feel shy spending at least $500 for a great suit – even more if you can afford it. Then substitute it with a couple more light-weight suits and jackets in the $200-$400 range to help mix things up.

2. Always make sure your suits and shirts fit well around the collar. Don’t buy oversized collars; they come across as slack and lazy. And too tight, well, we all need to breathe now don’t we??

3. Some men can easily mix patterns, suits, stripes, loud pocket kerchiefs, silky shiny materials, hats, tophats, and blinged up cufflinks. Some cannot!! It’s important to find the style that suits your personality, fits your career (bling in a conservative law firm certainly won’t go down that well!) and helps you ease forward in the game of life.

4. Ties are the one accessory for men that can really be personalised and allow you to express yourself and add some color and diversity. Ties can be suited up or dressed down with jeans and a white shirt (open top button and loose knot). Wander into second stores to dig up some classic and vivid ties with vibe and spirit, and perhaps spend a bit more on some nice new (perhaps black or red) versatile ties.

5. Find the right fit for our body:

* If you’re a big guy: Remember there is more of you to love, so wear your bulk with pride. Wear lightweight, suits built from heavier textiles will only add weight. Soft, worsted wools are your best friend. Choose darker colors which give desired slimming factor plus they’re classy and classic. If you’re going to stripe it, make it a solid vertical to create a sleek, slender visual. The jacket: Two buttons are optimal – they won’t draw attention to your bulky frame and stay single on the vent, which will give you the extra room you need minus the extra attention.

* If you’re tall and very lean, add weight with heavier fabrics – on a tall, skinny guy, lightweight fabrics will hang and make you look all the more frail. Heavier wools like tweed or a heavier weight worsted wool that hold their form is the smart decision; and give you much-needed proportion and the appearance of additional weight. Colors – opt for the greys and classic browns – Lighter colors; will add weight to your overall look. Jacket? Three buttons create height and length, tall guys, with their longer torsos, can pull this look off successfully. Keep it classy with the single vent – Although taller, slimmer men tall, skinny men have two options for the vent: we advise that you stick with a single-vent or ventless jacket which is always the classier choice.

* If you’re slight and shorter than average avoid loud patterns – The print of an overly bold pattern screams for attention and will only draw attention to your slight frame. Subdued, chilled out colours and small stripes, if any, will be far more stylish for you. Stripes – For shorter men, the next best thing to a shoe with a higher sole is a suit with vertical stripes. As stripes run top to bottom, they tend to draw the eye upward. Plus, they also lengthen your frame by elongating the look of the suit; giving you the illusion of appearing taller than you really are. Go for double vents – Small guys, the double-vent jacket was created with you in mind. The dual slits (or vents) along the side emphasize the outside lines of the body; in doing so, they establish an attractive, longer silhouette that complements and lengthens your frame.

The Bespoke Suit
These are custom made by a tailor from a pattern created entirely from the client’s measurements, giving the best-fit and free choice of fabric. Some of the most expensive suits in the world are painstakingly hand made by an increasingly scarce breed of extremely skilled tailors. These tailors know how to make suits that hide physical flaws and highlight attributes, without sacrificing comfort. Machine use is minimal, and each and every nuance of a client’s spoken and unspoken needs are met and often exceeded. Brioni, Attolini, Kiton, Luigi Borelli and Caraceni are some of the best known names in Italian bespoke suits. Some of the world’s most expensive suits are the Kiton K50s exclusively tailored by Senor D’Orsi, one of the finest tailors in the world. He makes not more than 50 suits in a year, each costing up to 50,000 USD. The fabrics used on a bespoke suit are usually the best, mostly worsted wool for business suits. These fabrics are used in the counts of 80’s and 90’s, or super 100’s, super 150’s and higher. The counts in the range of 80’s and 90’s also feel great and usually last longer than higher counts made at even the best clothing manufacturers. For those who can afford it, a bespoke suit made in the super 150’s fabric can be an absolute asset. It feels fabulously comfortable to wear and looks even better.

Made-to-Measure Men’s Suits
Not every one is privileged enough to get a bespoke suit made, but there is a range of suits which is nearly as good. With made-to-measure suits, (a pre-made pattern modified to fit the client, with a limited selection of options and fabrics is available) it is possible to achieve a degree of customization because the tailor takes up to 25 measurements of an individual body, and these are then sent to the factory. Here, alterations are made to already available basic patterns in order to achieve the best fit possible. Special requests like extra pockets, specific fabrics and linings, and a certain design and style can be accommodated. Some of the best fabrics, threads and interlinings are used, which helps guarantee a quality suit. But the production is assembly line, and many tailors work on the suit at different stages of production, unlike the single tailor for the bespoke suit. Ermenegildo Zegna su Misura does some of the best fittings in the made-to-measure industry. A good deal of technology goes into the making of these suits and their fabrics. Some Zegna suits use fabrics like Micronsphere which has all the great qualities of worsted but is also stain-resistant, or Cashco, which is a blend of cashmere and cotton, making it an all-weather fabric.

Off-the-rack Designer Men’s Suits
Though these cost about half that of a good made-to-measure Italian suit, they are still worth the money. The first and foremost advantage is speed, no agonizing fittings and long waits for the suit to get ready, and if chosen carefully, an off-the-rack suit from Prada, Armani, Versace, Zegna or Gucci fits quite well and is unbeatable for casual elegance and comfort. The trick is to shop around for the right size, cut and look. What is more, off-the-rack suits are good for those who are looking for variations and for different types of fabrics and styles. The beauty of an off-the-rack designer suit lies in its ability to change from season to season, and to bring in a hint of casual flair to the conservative world of men’s business clothing.

Ready to Wear
These suits are mass produced, least expensive and most common. You’ll find them in department stores and are an option for the budget conscious shopper. If you’re diligent in shopping carefully and following the tips above on getting the best fit for you, these suits may allow you to look suitably elegant in business attire and save your pocket at the same time.

Learn the secrets to dressing for success from the GQ fashion editors
By Paola Kudacki and Tom Schierlitz

Dressing well for the office shouldn’t add stress to your workday. You just need to know the basics. Here are the essential items to add to your closet—and how to wear them. Follow this guide and you’ll assemble an elegant, easy-to-use wardrobe that’ll take you to the top of your game.
Rules: Building Your Business Wardrobe

The Five Suits You Need in Your Closet

1. The Gray Suit
Think of it as the anchor of your business wardrobe—strong, elegant, and always appropriate, whether you're interviewing for your first job or addressing the shareholders at your last. A gray suit looks sharp and clean with a white, soft blue, or light pink shirt but is versatile enough that it'll go with just about anything. Any shade will do, but we recommend a medium gray, like the one this gentleman is wearing. Click on the NEXT button below for the season's best gray suits, in three price points.

2. The Solid Navy Suit
You can't go wrong here. A navy suit is always a safe, classic choice, and it travels seamlessly from the boardroom to an evening out. It lends itself well to almost any shirt-and-tie combination, but to up the elegance factor, pair it with a crisp white shirt, a dark solid tie, and a pocket square (think Cary Grant). Click on the NEXT button below for the season's best navy suits, in three price points.

3. The Solid Black Suit
It used to be that a black suit wasn't a safe choice for the office, but these days it's a staple. Just make sure yours is cut on the slim side and fits correctly. (However you feel about your job, you don't want to look like you work in a funeral home.) Click on the NEXT button below for the season's best black suits, in three price points.

4. The Pin-Striped Navy Suit
A cool classic that exudes confidence. You can anchor it with a solid shirt and tie or get adventurous—like the guy here, who's mixed it with a striped shirt and a striped tie. Just keep the components within one basic-color family and make sure that the stripes of the suit, shirt, and tie aren't too close in scale; one of the patterns should be bold and the other two more muted. Click on the NEXT button below for the season's best pin-striped navy suits, in three price points.

5. The Khaki Cotton Suit
A business wardrobe might consist mostly of dark suits, but spring and summer give you the chance to lighten up (literally). Do it in style with a khaki cotton suit. Pair it with a solid (blue, white, or pink) shirt and a dark tie for the office, then loosen it up (e.g., lose the tie and socks) for an evening out. Click on the NEXT button below for the season's best khaki cotton suits, in three price points.

Suits: Know Your Size
It sounds obvious, but it's not. The most crucial element of a suit is its fit, and not many sales guys understand how a suit should fit or, more specifically, how you want yours to fit. Before you step into a dressing room, get a handle on the various components of a suit.
1) Shoulders:
The suit's shoulders should hug yours. The shoulder pads should not protrude beyond your own shoulders.

2) Chest:
You should be able to easily button the jacket without it straining. Conversely, there shouldn't be too much space between the button and your chest—no more than a fist's worth.

3) Length:
When your arms are hanging straight down, you should be able to cup your fingers under the sides of your suit jacket. However, these days, with shorter suits in style, some jackets reach only about an inch or two beyond the cuff of your suit sleeve.

Suit Buttons
Think about the style of the suit you're buying. The first thing you need to consider is the number of buttons on the suit. This will determine a good deal about the cut and fit.

The three-button suit became the dominant look in the 1990s; it now seems to be the standard young man's choice. Instead of opting for one of those high-cut versions, look for one with a roll-over lapel—one in which you button the middle button, encouraging the soft lapel to roll over the top button.
For years the two-button suit was the go-to conservative, Capitol Hill getup. Now every fashion label imaginable is designing two-button suits, except they're making them more streamlined and modern. This cut is what's most in style right now—and it's the most versatile, looking good on almost every body type.

If you're looking for something rakish, a bit more high-style, try a one-button suit. It's not for everyone, but if you can pull it off, it's a sleek look.

Vents
A center vent is all-purpose; it is both modern and traditional. You can't go wrong.
Side vents are more European, a bit more suave. They also add a little more shape to your suit.

Lapels
A notch lapel—what you see on most business suits—is the standard. You're always safe with a notch lapel. Go for one on the narrow side, which will have a more modern, slimming effect.
A peak lapel is more old-school and elegant. And now it's enjoying a comeback with high-fashion and business crowds alike. It makes a statement. Just don't get them too wide—you don't want to look like a Sopranos extra.

What a Tailor Can and Can’t Do For You
A tailor can make a good suit great, but he can't work miracles. Click on the NEXT button below for the areas you should direct your tailor's attention to.

Shoulders:
If your suit doesn't fit in the shoulders, it's not going to fit anywhere else. Salesmen will tell you they can reduce or reshape the shoulder pads. Don't listen to them.

Pants:
If the pants are an inch or so too tight or too large in the waist, a tailor can usually fix them. But if it's more than an inch, you're asking for trouble

Jacket:
A tailor will usually need to alter the length of the sleeves. Insist that you'd like a quarter inch of shirt cuff to show. The sides of a jacket often need tapering so they contour to your torso. And check out the collar: Many times there is a roll in the back of the suit jacket, up near your neck. A good tailor can correct this.

By Niamh O'Rourke

As London Fashion Week kicks off, stylist Niamh O’Rourke gives her essential tips for the modern male

It's the film the fashion world has been breathless anticipating. And legendary Gucci designer Tom Ford didn't disappoint with his debut as a director.
A Single Man is a visual feast, beautifully shot and featuring an impeccably styled Colin Firth. His character may be in the throes of despair but he certainly wears a crisp white shirt well

Set in the 1960s, A Single Man, which is in cinemas now, is bound to be as influential on men's fashion as the extraordinary stylish drama Mad Men, which takes place during the same era - a golden age for men's fashion.

A word of warning, though boys. You have probably got used to your better half extolling the sartorial virtues of MM's Don Draper, with his slim-cut check suits, crisp shirts and narrow ties. Now you'd better prepare yourself for a real dressing down when you bring her to see Colin in all his glory.
But we've got a little help for you. Regardless of the latest trends there are still three key rules for the stylish man. Whether you're a street chic blogger who prides themselves on being ahead of the curve or a refined gent who appreciates a little luxury, sartorial salvation is in the detail.
Rule number one -- consider your choice of shoes carefully, they say a lot about who you are.

Secondly, it's worth investing in tailoring. Suiting is all about the fit, fabric and finish. You need to be patient in your search and be prepared to stretch the budget. A well cut suit will play a key role in your wardrobe so don't underestimate its payback.

Finally, rough and ready or slick and sharp, grooming is important so give your skin, hair and nails a little TLC.
Now that the basics are in order, what does menswear have to offer us for Spring /Summer 2010?

Double breasted jacket
According to Paul O'Connor, the menswear buying director for Brown Thomas, the double-breasted jacket or the 'DB' is this season's key piece. That said they're not for everyone and you need to have a trim tummy to pull this one off.
In place of the usual six or four-button version, this season's is a very low, two-buttoned offering. The shape is soft and the cut is short. To wear it well, team with a basic T-shirt or fine knit and a slim-fitting chino or jean.

Carrot leg chino
There's something a little disconcerting about using a vegetable to describe a garment, but this is the term that's doing the rounds; the 'carrot' leg silhouette.
Basically it's a slim-fitting, tapered trouser. Good in denim, but great as a chino, this looks super cool with a rolled-up end for a knowing nod to the '50s.

Dark indigo denim
When it comes to jeans, dark indigo are the way to go. Swedish label Acne does a great slim silhouette while Paul Smith's offerings are perfect for a more classic cut.

Checks
This street chic trend is here to stay. From the high-end Dsquared and D&G to the more accessible Topman and French Connection, the check shirt is fitting very comfortably into the '50s revival.

Go for a country'n'western feel with popper buttoning and piped trim. Alternatively, Gordon Richardson, Topman design director advises a short-sleeved hooded version to keep the look fresh.

Checks are not to be limited to the canvas of a shirt. Suits and jackets in everything from Prince of Wales to hounds tooth and gingham are all fair game.

Grey
This season, grey is the hue of choice. A light silvery tone to be precise. Mix with dark colors and discrete textures for an understated vibe. Alternatively, this neutral color works perfectly with pastels.

If you have a phobia of color, introduce it into your wardrobe gradually in the form of a lightweight scarf, shirt, pocket handkerchief or subtle trim.

Accessories
Thick-framed glasses
Accessories are paramount when it comes to putting an individual twist on any look.
If you see yourself as cool enough to carry off any trend that comes your way, then a pair of heavy horn-rimmed glasses will establish your confidence.
These have been knocking around on the noses of the cool kids for quite a while now, but with Colin Firth sporting his very retro pair in A Single Man, you'll realize this trend is just about to take off.
In terms of sunglasses, it's the season of the classic shape, particularly aviators.

Brogue
The ubiquitous brogue can be either comfortingly classic or boldly retro, depending on the style you choose.
If you want to keep it classic, go for a traditional shape like a pair of Church's or Tricker's, both are quintessentially English brands steeped in craftsmanship.

If you want to go down the more flamboyant road, go for a bright color or two-tone option. This solid piece of footwear will be the lynchpin of your wardrobe.

Luxury holdall 'v' shopper
Always a talking point, the man bag can be a point of consternation. According to Gordon Richardson, "the luxury holdall will finish off any look".
This doesn't mean you need to go out and spend a fortune on a calfskin version by Etro but it does mean that it's a far cry from your gym kit bag.
Asos has a great selection for under €40 that plays the part perfectly. For a more contemporary look, Paul O'Connor suggests the shopper, a tote shape that every level of label from Prada to Acne is a fan of.

If trends play no more of a part in your wardrobe than a blue glitter shoe, then check out the following timeless pieces to keep your look polished.
Dark indigo jean: This is a smart version of a casual classic that is a great multi-tasker. Avoid boot cut and go for a classic straight leg like those by Paul Smith.

Brogue: You can never go wrong with a classic brogue. Opt for muted tones and a rounded toe.

Suit: An impeccably tailored suit will take you places. Try Canali for a classic broad fit or Prada or Paul Smith for something more slimline.

Trench or Mac: A belted trench like the Burberry classic in stone or camel is the perfect spring overcoat.
Crisp shirt complete with cufflinks and collar bones: Try Thomas Pink on Dublin's Dawson Street for a vast selection.

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