Zegna Archives

Highlights of Milan Men's Fashion Show

At the Milan menswear shows thus far, congratulations must be given to a few of the brands, at least for staying power, if not for anything else. This week had a great showing by most, a mediocre presentation by a few, and a disappointing turn by some. Here are a few that stood out:

Zegna
Ermenegildo Zegna turned 100 this week. Let's just take a minute and bask in the glow of finer manhood. There aren't that many men's labels around that do what Zegna does with such precision. This brand is an endangered species and their collection this week in Milan speaks to my statement. This collection fit in great with the overall image of the brand. Cottons, linens, silks, and mohair collaborated to great result -- a consistent line. Slimly cut suits and high-rising pants came to the forefront of this collection with the occasional see through tops that solidified the European styling of the looks.

Dolce &Gabbana
D&G's men's collection celebrated its 20th birthday at Le déjeuner sur l'herbe. The theme was picnics and if there is one thing that D&G know how to do -- it's set the mood. The catwalk transformed into a pasture of grass with videos of families on picnics on a backdrop video wall. Male models were styled to look like the picnicking type, strutted down the runway in dressy/casual looks that presented the illusion that they had just left the office and made a slight adjustment to their outfit to convert it into a perfect lunch time ensemble for the park. Blazers paired with preppy shorts and longer pants with layered looks brought the D&G perspective full circle. However, the colors in the collection didn't go well together and seemed out of place at times -- especially if the overall theme was supposed to be a picnic.

Dsquared2
Dsquared2's presentation was underwhelming. I was expecting more excitement, especially after seeing their previous collections. With that being said, the collection was plain -- but Dsquared2's most wearable collection to date. The collection included Dsquared2's signature jeans paired with blazers, buttoned shirts, skinny ties, and swimwear that seemed conservative for the brand. Embellishments to the garments were minimal, giving the looks a highly Americanized feel. The models were styled in a cool and relaxed way with sunglasses on some, and half buttoned shirts -- Tom Ford style. My favorite piece was a tailored khaki suit with a lavender shirt unbuttoned to the top of the torso. The designers teamed the ensemble with dark sunglasses, black pointy shoes, and a medium-sized black belt encompassing a jet setter look.

Etro
Etro has become known for its excellent tailoring and bright colors. This time around, the colors didn't show up as often. The designer instead opted for transparent darker colors with his signature paisley print as a silhouette. The collection was a breath of fresh air for the brand that was beginning to be borderline predictable. Fun separates took to the green lawn runway in Milan with Jackets and pants with lace shirts -- quite different from your Etro of the past. Fun prints and embroidery on collars of jackets and shirts accented the collection beautifully without coming off as too much. This collection was a pleasant surprise.
Overall, the men's presentations in Milan were mediocre at best -- with the occasional surprise. It seems as if menswear is moving to a transparent stylistic approach this next season with see through tops and solid colors. I didn't see too many patterns and embellishments. I guess the fashion industry isn't through with simplicity yet -- at least not in Milan.

NWT 2800 DOLCE GABBANA Doubel Breasted Martini Black Suit s EU54 US44
NWT 2800 DOLCE  GABBANA Doubel Breasted Martini Black Suit s EU54 US44 $1,795.00
End Date: Friday May-18-2012 14:44:09 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $1,795.00
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Authentic Dolce Gabbana Luxury Wool Suit US 46 EU 56
Authentic Dolce  Gabbana Luxury Wool Suit US 46 EU 56 $630.00
End Date: Friday May-18-2012 15:02:35 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $630.00
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Authentic Dolce Gabbana Luxury Wool Suit US 48 EU 58
Authentic Dolce  Gabbana Luxury Wool Suit US 48 EU 58 $630.00
End Date: Friday May-18-2012 15:03:58 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $630.00
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DG Dolce Gabbana Italy Men Jacket Suit and Vest Waistcoat 100 authentic
DG Dolce  Gabbana Italy Men Jacket Suit and Vest Waistcoat 100 authentic $199.90
End Date: Friday May-18-2012 16:09:05 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $199.90
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NWT 1975 DOLCE GABBANA Luxury Solid Charcoal Gray Wool Suit Slim 42 R Italy
NWT 1975 DOLCE  GABBANA Luxury Solid Charcoal Gray Wool Suit Slim 42 R Italy $725.00
End Date: Friday May-18-2012 18:54:55 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $725.00
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NWT 1795 DOLCE GABBANA Martini Solid Black Wool Silk Suit Slim 46 R Italy
NWT 1795 DOLCE  GABBANA Martini Solid Black Wool Silk Suit Slim 46 R Italy $695.00
End Date: Friday May-18-2012 19:17:23 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $695.00
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DOLCE GABBANA Mens Silvery Brown Wool Silk Suit 54 42 1600
DOLCE  GABBANA Mens Silvery Brown Wool Silk Suit 54 42 1600 $407.15
End Date: Friday May-18-2012 21:26:26 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $407.15
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DOLCE VITA 2B SLIM FIT MENS SUIT SHINY D SILVER HERRINGBONE 44L FREE SHIP TIE
DOLCE VITA 2B SLIM FIT MENS SUIT SHINY D SILVER HERRINGBONE 44L FREE SHIP TIE $169.95
End Date: Friday May-18-2012 22:39:59 PDT

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Zegna Celebrates 100 Years in Fashion

One of men’s fashion's most storied brands, Ermenegildo Zegna, celebrated its 100th anniversary on Monday, June 21, with a swish and stylish double-header fashion show and a impressive retrospective exhibition in Milan.

Founded by Ermenegildo Gildo in 1910 after his watchmaker father acquired a couple of looms in an early example of entrepreneurship, today Zegna is a brand boasting sales of over one billion dollars. And it’s still all in family hands.

To celebrate its centenary, Zegna mixed heritage with innovation by staging two consecutive shows, held in La Triennale, which was also the setting of the Monday opening of a retrospective named, “Ermenegildo Zegna 100 Years of Excellence.”

Events opened with a display of the house’s main line, which was all about the fabric of this Milan season – seersucker, though instead of the usual contrasts of blue, or red, and white, there was lots of black and gray, or of navy and sky-blue.

Milan has also heralded the latest death of the tie, in an almost tie-free season, and they were largely banished at Zegna, though its bread and butter business is the sleek business suit. Instead, most models sported cotton or silk bandanas and racing stocks, and were all the more dashing for that.

Next came the far more fashion-forward Z Zegna collection, whose creative director, Alessandro Sartori, is currently rated the most sophisticated, new tailor in Italy. For next spring, he sees men in rugged linens and mixes of silk, cotton and even jute.

Sartori cut blazers and Eisenhower jackets with exposed seams and tapped into a major new look here, semi-transparent tailoring. By using silk chiffon mixes, he makes jackets super-lightweight and user friendly – they keep their shape and keep the wearer cool at the same time.

Featuring a palette of blood orange, cement, faded gray and rust, Sartori dreamed up some great new looks, even if his insistence on cutting most trousers two inches above the ankle seemed a tall ask for most men.

“I wanted the past and present of Zegna, but with the technological tailoring of the future,” Sartori said, as he received compliments backstage, dressed in a rough-hewn slate gray hemp suit.

Testifying to the longevity of this family business, the founder’s son, Angelo Zegna, a sturdy 88-year-old, took a bow at the show’s finale.

“For me it’s always about roots and winks. The roots are our tailoring, our great suits that give men a distinguished look. And the winks are our experimentation, our determination to try something new. And I think we saw plenty of both today,” smiled CEO Gildo Zegna, as the crowd of 1,500 drifted out of the event.

You can purchase Zegna mens' suits at subsantial savings below:

Ermenegildo Zegna Italy100 Wool Light Gray 3 Button complete Dress Suit 3000
Ermenegildo Zegna Italy100 Wool Light Gray 3 Button complete Dress Suit 3000 $299.90
End Date: Friday May-18-2012 16:08:26 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $299.90
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New Mens Ermenegildo Zegna Multiseason Fit Rom Wool Suit Black 58 48 2495
New Mens Ermenegildo Zegna Multiseason Fit Rom Wool Suit Black 58 48 2495 $449.00
End Date: Friday May-18-2012 16:10:46 PDT

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New Mens Ermenegildo Zegna Multiseason Fit Rom Wool Suit Black 58 48 2495
New Mens Ermenegildo Zegna Multiseason Fit Rom Wool Suit Black 58 48 2495 $409.00
End Date: Friday May-18-2012 16:11:07 PDT

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Mens Z Zegna Black Tonal Stripes City Slim Fit Business Suit 38 Long
Mens Z Zegna Black Tonal Stripes City Slim Fit Business Suit 38 Long $349.00
End Date: Friday May-18-2012 16:12:49 PDT

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New Mens Tindari Ermenegildo Zegna Fabric Pin Dot Navy Blue Suit 38 36 1495
New Mens Tindari Ermenegildo Zegna Fabric Pin Dot Navy Blue Suit 38 36 1495 $304.00 (3 Bids)
End Date: Friday May-18-2012 16:18:21 PDT

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NWT 2395 ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA Fit Milano Lt Gray Houndstooth Wool Suit 44 46 L
NWT 2395 ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA Fit Milano Lt Gray Houndstooth Wool Suit 44 46 L $795.00
End Date: Friday May-18-2012 16:51:57 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $795.00
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1499 Ermenegildo Zegna Men 2 Butt Blue Suit 44 S
1499 Ermenegildo Zegna Men 2 Butt Blue Suit 44 S $15.99 (1 Bid)
End Date: Friday May-18-2012 17:03:32 PDT

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TOMBOLINI E Zegna Cloth Wool Silk Light Gray Purple Pinstriped Suit 52 IT
TOMBOLINI E Zegna Cloth Wool Silk Light Gray Purple Pinstriped Suit 52 IT $462.50
End Date: Friday May-18-2012 17:35:07 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $462.50
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