From dealing with the sales guy to choosing lapels—everything you need to know about buying the perfect suit.

1. Use the salesperson to your advantage
He’ll tell you whatever you want to hear—that everything looks great on you, that the store’s tailor can fix any suit. And you can almost be guaranteed his sense of style will be different from yours. For all these reasons, you need to know as much as possible about how a suit should fit and what kind of suit you’re looking for before you walk through the door. Remember, you’re the boss, not him. If you need his/her help finding the size and style you want, do so. Remember you will most likely be able to find the same suit online for half the price.

2. Know why you’re buying a suit
Are you hunting for a suit that you’re going to wear to the office once or more a week? (If so, keep it dark and classic.) Or are you looking for a suit you’ll wear a few times a year to weddings and funerals? (Black or navy is a safe bet.) Is it a suit you’ll wear to job interviews? (If so, you want to be well dressed but not better dressed than the guy interviewing you, so nothing too pricey.) Or is it the kind you’d wear with sneakers and a T-shirt, or wear just the jacket with a pair of jeans? (Think designer, Ermenegildo Zegna, Giorgio Armani, or Canali, not Brooks Brothers or Hickey Freeman.)

3. Start at a department store but purchase online
When you’re ready to start shopping, grab a friend who won’t hesitate to provide you with a blunt opinion, and head to a store like Barneys or Saks or Bloomingdale’s. You’ll be able to view a variety of brands instead of just one. Once you’re inside, do a lap of the suit floor by yourself. See what styles are carried—what grabs your attention. Look at prices. Ask for a salesman when you’re good and ready. Now, allow the salesperson to help you find your size if necessary. Once you determined the correct size it is time to go online to the Best Designer Suit Store and save enough money to buy a second suit or a pair of shoes.

4. Know your size
It sounds obvious, but it’s not. The most crucial element of a suit is its fit, and not many sales guys understand how a suit should fit or, more specifically, how you want yours to fit. Before you step into a dressing room, get a handle on the various components of a suit…
Shoulders:
The suit’s shoulders should hug yours; shoulder pads should not protrude beyond your own shoulders. If you stand sideways against a wall and the shoulder pad touches the wall before your arm does, the suit is too big.
Chest:
You should be able to easily button the jacket without it straining. Conversely, there shouldn’t be too much space between the button and your chest—no more than a fist’s worth.
Length:
When your arms are hanging straight down, you should be able to cup your fingers under the sides of your suit jacket. However, these days, with shorter suits in style, some jackets reach only about an inch beyond the cuff of your suit sleeve.

5. Start thinking about the number of buttons
Now you need to think about the style of the suit itself. The first thing you need to consider is the number of buttons on the suit. This will determine a good deal about the cut and fit. Here are some basic pointers:
The three-button suit became the dominant look in the 1990s; it now seems to be the standard young man’s choice. Instead of opting for one of those high-cut versions, look for one with a roll-over lapel—one in which you button the middle button, encouraging the soft lapel to roll over the top button.

For years the two-button suit was the go-to conservative, Capitol Hill getup. Now every fashion label imaginable is designing two-button suits, except they’re making them more streamlined and modern. This cut is what’s most in style right now.
If you’re looking for something rakish, a bit more high-style, try a one-button suit. It’s not for everyone, but if you can pull it off, it’s a sleek look.

6. Think about the vents on the back of the suit jacketA center vent is all-purpose; it is both modern and traditional. You can’t go wrong.
Side vents are more European; a bit more suave.
A ventless jacket is just plain wrong. It says you think it’s still 1986.

7. …and the type of lapel
A notch lapel—what you see on most business suits—is the standard. You’re always safe with a notch lapel.
A peak lapel is more old-school and elegant. And now it’s enjoying a comeback with the high-fashion crowd. It makes a statement.

8. Now head to the dressing room
If you’re not wearing a dress shirt and dress shoes, ask for them; a good store should be able to hook you up. Then, find the three-way mirror and size up your suit. And not just the jacket. Consider the pants, too: They should be comfortable, and the rise (where the pants sit on your waist) shouldn’t be too high or too low for your taste. If you don’t think the pants fit right, try on another suit.

9. Know what a tailor can—and can’t—do for you
Here are the areas you should direct your tailor’s attention to:
Shoulders: If your suit doesn’t fit in the shoulders, it’s not going to fit anywhere else. Salesmen will tell you they can reduce or reshape the shoulder pads—don’t listen to them.
Pants: If the pants are an inch or so too tight or too large in the waist, a tailor can usually fix them. But if it’s more than an inch, you’re asking for trouble.
Jacket: A tailor usually will need to alter the length of the sleeves. Insist that you’d like a quarter inch of shirt cuff to show. The sides of a jacket often need tapering so they contour to your torso. And check out the collar: Many times there is a roll in the back of the suit jacket, up near your neck. A good tailor can correct this.

Any tailoring required to obtain that perfect can be done locally with funds saved by shopping online.

By Clifford Pugh

Threadwize, a consortium of owners from 10 of the nation's top family-owned clothing stores, met in Houston this week to share ideas, talk about trends and figure out ways to attract more customers in the age of giant chains and the Internet. We took the opportunity to ask them about trends in menswear (most specialize in men's clothing) and find out what style question they get asked most frequently.

What's the big trend in menswear?
1. Soft jackets would be the biggest trend. It looks like a sport coat but with not as much construction. It's meant to be worn without a tie and is mostly worn with jeans or casual trousers. — Butch Blum, owner Butch Blum, Seattle

2. Latest trends: No socks, no black shoes (I've been preaching that one for 25 years), no silk pocket squares (just cotton; usually a shirt fabric stripe or check). Wearing trousers shorter (about 2.5 inches from the floor up or shorter) with no break. No cuff on flat front cotton trousers. But always cuff on dress trousers. And make the cuff larger, like 1 and 3/4 inches. — George Bass, owner George Bass, New Orleans

3. The biggest change in menswear within the last few years (yes, sadly it takes that long for men to embrace any change) is the advent of slimmer fitting clothing and flat front trousers. This new silhouette looks fresh and modern and is an obvious way to distinguish the young and hip (chronologically or merely as a way of thinking) from the tired old establishment. Needless to say, we did the same thing with our pleated trousers and oversized jackets way back when. Dress like your grandfather = hip. Like your dad = nerd. — Dick Pattison, owner Taylor Richards & Conger, Charlotte

4. Soft jackets that are shorter, to wear with jeans or casual pants. — Greg Eveloff, owner The Clotherie, Phoenix

5. Men’s suits are definitely trending to a closer fit than they have in the past; in jackets, higher armholes, trimmer silhouette, and in pants, definitely flat front and a narrower leg. Expect to wear your trouser bottoms higher than before because of the narrower leg. Double breasted clothing is still trying to make its mark. On the other end of the spectrum (in casual wear for fall), look for cleaner denims and interesting fabrics and finishes in sportswear. Sloppy is out. (Are y’all hearing that, Houston??) There are some definite retro trends as well – references to old-fashioned jeans with belt buckles on the back, elbow patches, and HENLEYS! — Murry Penner, owner M Penner, Houston

The length of your suit’s pants might make you look longer, shorter, trendier, old-fashioned.
The length of the pants of your suit depends on your personal preference. That is rule number one; follow your personal style rather than what a salesman is telling you. However, there is certain etiquette you might want to know about. In most cultures, the pants of the suit should be 1 centimeter above the sole of your shoe when standing up straight (measured from the back of the pants). I wear my pants 4 centimeters above the sole of my shoes which means you can see my socks when I walk, which is fine. You can play around with colored socks that match your outfit. When you sit, people shouldn’t have to see your bare calves or hairy legs (like mine). Especially during formal events, make sure your socks are long enough. David Beckham has the perfect length pants.

The major advantage of tailoring your pants to 4 centimeters above the sole of the shoe is that there are no extreme folds at the bottom. For me, a single subtle folding works. Long and skinny people often look better if they wear their pants of the suit a little longer (2 centimeters above the sole) because high-flood pants will optically create the illusion that the person’s legs are even longer. Short men should avoid wearing their pants only 1 or 2 centimeter above the sole of the shoe because many folds at the bottom creates the optical illusion that the person is even shorter.

Certain fashion designers like Thom Brown, have made high-flood pants a mantra for success of their fashion companies. Still, not all men can go to work like Thom Brown does. If you are working for a, let’s say, ‘traditional’ boss or your customers are very traditional, they usually dislike shorter lengths of the pants because they are used to ‘oversized’ clothing that was trendy many years ago.
From left to right: Hill Harper, John Legend and Terrence Howard. In my humble opinion, Harper’s pants are way too long, look at the folds at the bottom! Legend’s the man! He dared to try something creative which I think looks great. Howard’s pants are of the right length.

The length of the pants of your suit depends on your personal preference. That is rule number one; follow your personal style rather than what a salesman is telling you. However, there is certain etiquette you might want to know about. In most cultures, the pants of the suit should be 1 centimeter above the sole of your shoe when standing up straight (measured from the back of the pants). I wear my pants 4 centimeters above the sole of my shoes which means you can see my socks when I walk, which is fine. You can play around with colored socks that match your outfit. When you sit, people shouldn’t have to see your bare calves or hairy legs (like mine). Especially during formal events, make sure your socks are long enough. David Beckham has the perfect length pants.

The major advantage of tailoring your pants to 4 centimeters above the sole of the shoe is that there are no extreme folds at the bottom. For me, a single subtle folding works. Long and skinny people often look better if they wear their pants of the suit a little longer (2 centimeters above the sole) because high-flood pants will optically create the illusion that the person’s legs are even longer. Short men should avoid wearing their pants only 1 or 2 centimeter above the sole of the shoe because many folds at the bottom creates the optical illusion that the person is even shorter.

Certain fashion designers like Thom Brown, have made high-flood pants a mantra for success of their fashion companies. Still, not all men can go to work like Thom Brown does. If you are working for a, let’s say, ‘traditional’ boss or your customers are very traditional, they usually dislike shorter lengths of the pants because they are used to ‘oversized’ clothing that was trendy many years ago.

Given the choice, most men wouldn’t reach for neckties and suit jackets in record-setting heat, but there’s little leeway when the dress code calls for professional attire.

The buttoned-down look may seem harsh in 90-degree temperatures, but it’s the customary way to do business for men in many lines of work, said Bruce Baird, owner of Bruce Baird & Co., a men’s clothing store on Broad Street.

“You have a different attitude when you’re dressed in a suit,” he said. “Owners of businesses will tell you that the more professional you dress, the harder you work. And people seem to have more respect for you. I have stockbrokers who require their employees to wear professional clothing five days a week, as do law offices and accountants.”

No matter the outside temperature, lawyers are expected to dress professionally in the courtroom, said retired Chattanooga Judge Douglas Meyer, 78, now living in Daytona Beach Shores, Fla.

“Lawyers must wear suits in court to present the proper decorum,” Meyer said. “I tried to look cool in my summer suits, although I was often soaking wet with sweat.”

There are secrets to staying cool in the summer — even in a wool suit, Baird said.
“Right now I’m wearing a navy wool suit, and I’m very comfortable. People don’t realize that wool is an ideal fabric for hot weather. It has a wicking factor that keeps you cool. It’s a very lightweight wool. In fact, the majority of clothing in my store right now is made of lightweight wool.”

The other ideal fabric is seersucker, he said.
“A seersucker suit is 100 percent cotton, and it is as cool as you can get. Chattanooga is humid, and you want fabrics that wick away the humidity. A seersucker suit is known as the Southern gentleman’s suit. It’s very popular, especially in the South. It’s one of the best fabrics you can wear in the hot summer.”

Baird, 57, said he’s been wearing suits to work for the last 40 years, since he began his career as a salesman at a local department store.

“I never thought about going to work without wearing a coat and tie, no matter what time of year it was,” Baird said, noting that attitudes toward clothing have relaxed in the last 20 years.

“It first started out as casual Friday, and then [casual dress] became accepted five days a week,” he said. “But in Chattanooga, we stayed pretty much a fairly dressed-up town. The rule of thumb has been that you should be dressed as well or better than your clients, customers or bosses.”

Jay Robinson, broker/owner of Robinson Real Estate, said he wears 100 percent cotton khakis as much as possible in the summer, often with a suit and tie, but he tries to “mirror image” what he anticipates his clients will be wearing
“If I’m meeting with an older couple, I’ll will wear a suit and tie, because I expect that’s what the man will wear,” he said. “But if I’m showing close friends a house, I’ll be wearing shorts because I know they will be, too.”

Robinson said that at a recent lunch meeting, none of the 40 men in attendance wore a tie.
“Many businesses are more forgiving and understanding, even businesses with a high level of dress code, if you dress casual in weather like this,” he said. “You have to or you would be miserable. Overall, there’s a more casual attitude, particularly during the hot weather months. I’m flexible in my own company.”

SECRETS FOR STAYING COOL
Men’s clothing store owner Bruce Baird offers these tips for staying cool.
• Wear a long-sleeved shirt. Sound counterintuitive? Baird says a long-sleeved, 100 percent cotton dress shirt is cooler than a short-sleeved one “because most coats have lining. The cotton shirt prevents the lining from touching the skin, which would feel clammy. So when you take off your jacket, you just roll up your sleeves, and that’s totally acceptable.”
• Choose your fabrics wisely. Your best choices are two that don’t seem to belong together: wool and seersucker. However, Baird said, a lightweight wool and all-cotton seersucker both wick away moisture and thus are ideal for hot weather.
• Reward your feet. If you wear a light-colored suit or pants, such as seersucker or khaki-colored slacks, you don’t have to wear socks, Baird said. “Just use a good talcum powder on your feet, and they will stay cool.”

After years of showing snug, skinny and even constricting clothing, some menswear designers are in a more relaxed mood. Fashion houses such as Calvin Klein Collection, Comme des Garçons and Louis Vuitton put fuller, wider cuts in their runway collections for this year, featuring baggy pleated pants and voluminous, flowing shirts and coats.

"It was the right time to change the silhouette" after seasons of tight clothing, says Italo Zucchelli, men's creative director of Calvin Klein Collection whose fall 2011 collection at New York fashion week featured full, pleated pants and oversized bomber jackets. "Sometimes it's almost like your eye is looking for something else, looking for a new direction, a new feel," he adds.

Menswear Loosens Up
After years of showing snug, close-cut clothing for men, some designers such as Calvin Klein Collection, Comme des Garçons and Louis Vuitton put fuller, wider cuts on their runways this spring, featuring baggy pleated pants and voluminous, flowing shirts and coats.
Calvin Klein Collection men's fall 2011 show at New York fashion week featured full, pleated pants and oversized bomber jackets.
Yet mainstream brands—as well as many men—have only recently gotten comfortable with the slimmer silhouettes that flooded the catwalks in recent years.

"It took us a long time to get men into flat-front pants," says Nickelson Wooster, men's fashion director at Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman. "I don't think either the customers or the stores are ready to throw that away."
With fitted clothing still selling well, retailers see the new silhouette as a look for the fashion-forward, at least initially. While Bergdorf Goodman now carries long, drapey T-shirts from Rick Owens and plans to carry pleated trousers from Dries Van Noten, Mr. Wooster says it will take a while for fuller looks to reach regular guys.

In menswear, "the pace of change is glacial," he says. "As more men see more images of newer fits, then over time, their eyes will adjust."
For some designers, however, the shift is sharp. Even lines like Dior Homme and Thom Browne, once poster children for supernarrow, body-hugging silhouettes, have been adding more wiggle room to their clothes.

Mr. Browne says he likes to play with classic looks' silhouettes and proportions "to make them not so classic." For fall 2011, that meant some baggy pants, including roomy jodhpurs, on the runways. Dior Homme started getting baggier last spring.

Mr. Wooster cites designer Tom Ford as a key influence on the emerging silhouette. Mr. Ford, he says, "has proposed a more aggressive clothing model that has a bigger shoulder, wider lapel and a longer jacket." Tom Ford's latest collection also includes pleated pants.

The looser look may come as a relief to many of the men who squeezed themselves into slim-cut pants and shirts in recent seasons. Karl Lagerfeld wrote in a 2004 book that he was motivated to lose some 90-odd pounds in 13 months in part by the desire to fit into Dior Homme's skinny clothing.
But before men rejoice, style experts say, they should consider that baggy pleated pants aren't as forgiving as men think. "You have to be tall, you have to be in shape" to pull them off, says Mr. Zucchelli of Calvin Klein. "They're not for everybody," including, he says, himself.
Mr. Wooster concurs. "I think flat-front trousers always look cleanest, regardless of body type."

Men who still want to cling to tighter styles don't have to worry. Prada and Versace are among the labels sticking to closer-fitting clothes. Even Mr. Browne isn't completely abandoning his signature look. And the exaggerated runway looks may not be as wide and full when the clothes actually reach stores.

At Saks Fifth Avenue, the relaxed silhouette and pleated pants will show up "in our advanced designer area," said Eric Jennings, men's fashion director. But this is "a specific niche audience in only a handful of locations across the country."

Still, he noted one more constituency for pleated pants. "We'll still have some pleats for our traditional, conservative customer who never really switched to flat-front trousers in the first place."

There are several signs of a quality dress shirt. Some, like fabric or fit, are instantly obvious. Others, such as the type of buttons or cuffs, take a minute or two to scope. And still others—hidden details like single-needle seams and gussets—are visible only to the wearer and his laundress. Here, we hit all those and more.

Fabric
Needless to say, a shirt should be made from 100 percent cotton, but that doesn’t narrow things down much. As with bed linens, shirt cottons have different thread counts, with a higher number indicating a material that is smoother, silkier, and more formal (not to mention more expensive).
More important is the type of weave. Broadcloth is a tight weave, which imparts a sheen, giving the shirt a dressy feel. These are often light and thin—if you have any shirts that are somewhat see-through, they’re likely broadcloth. (If you have any white T-shirts that are somewhat see-through, they’re just cheaply made.)

Twill, which is softer than broadcloth and tends to drape more easily, has a diagonal texture that shows off stripes and patterns very nicely. It can also have a slightly shiny texture (unless it’s brushed, which gives it a fuzzier finish).
Oxford cloth, meanwhile, is made with a basket weave, and is heavier and commensurately less formal. It’s also one of the more durable shirting fabrics you’ll come across, and happens to look perfectly fine a bit rumpled.

The most desirable types of cotton (though by no means the only good ones) are Pima, Egyptian and Sea Island (despite its exotic image, the latter is named for islands in South Carolina, rather than the South Seas.) All three are from the same type of plant, Gossypium Barbadense, which has particularly long fibers that can be used to make fine, strong threads.

All shirt cottons come in either single-ply or two-ply. Despite what you might expect, in this context “two-ply” means a fabric in which two yarns that have been intertwined before being woven, rather than two layers of fabric that have been stacked together (yet another way in which high-quality shirting differs from ordinary paper towels). Two-ply shirt fabric is stronger and more luxurious than single-ply.

Cuffs
The notion of a shirt than can be worn for any occasion is a myth, unless your life is narrower than a pair of Swedish jeans, and the cuff plays a major role in determining when a shirt should be worn. The most common type—the one most people think of when you say “shirt cuff”—is the barrel, which is fastened by one to three buttons, with a larger number being more formal. Note that we’re referring to buttons that are arranged vertically (going along your arm), as opposed to buttons that are placed next to each other as a sizing variable—in that instance, the extra button is usually a sign of cheapness, not formality. In any case, if you really want formal, you need to go French.

Where barrel cuffs are all about function, French cuffs are for show, thanks to the extra layer of folded-back fabric and to the cufflinks required to hold that layer in place. They’re also more formal. Shopping for a super-dressy shirt? Its cuffs better be French. More in a mood for a buffalo check flannel? Button cuffs. There are also single linked cuffs, which are essentially French cuffs that don’t fold back (or, viewed another way, barrel cuffs without buttons). These are traditionally for white tie events, and need to be worn with shorter cufflinks than traditional French cuffs, as there is less fabric to bind.

The truly adventurous may be tempted to seek out turnback button cuffs, which are French cuffs fastened by attached buttons, not cufflinks. They were sometimes worn by Sean Connery as James Bond, and outside that context they make about as much sense as a wristwatch with pullout garroting wire.

The final point of concern is whether you want square, round or mitred (45 degree angled) cuff ends (also known as cuff corners). Which to get is basically just a matter of personal preference, although some contend that a mitred edge makes a barrel cuff a tad dressier. Whatever shape you choose, there is one simple rule that must be followed: your cuffs should fit tightly enough on the wrist that you can’t get your hand through them when they’re fastened. Otherwise, they (and probably your sleeves) are too wide, and no mother of pearl button or silver cufflink can save you.

The Collar
Whether or not you’ll be wearing a tie, you need a collar that can stand up for itself—when you remove your neckwear (or, just as likely, skip the tie part altogether) the last thing you want is for your shirt to deflate beneath your jacket. To keep things, well, erect, opt for metal collar stays. The stylistic upside vastly outweighs the occasional airport security line inconvenience. Also, look for a collar with an interlining, which is the bit of fabric between the two outer layers that gives the collar its rigidity.

Fused interlinings are by far the most common, but the subject of fusing still incites great passion among shirt people. A fused collar (or a fused cuff) is one in which the interlining is attached, via adhesive, to one of the outer layers. The advantage is stiffness (a desirable quality in cuffs and drinks, though not in suits, hence the term “bag of glue” for fully fused off-the-rack suits), and the potential disadvantage is bubbling after repeated washing. Rub a cuff between your thumb and forefinger: if one side moves a little, and one side not at all, it’s fused; if both sides move, with what feels like a floating piece of material between them, it isn’t. For one reason or other, the Italians seem to favor fusing, and the English do not. As in many areas of sartorial debate, neither of them is right.

There are various styles of collar, and various experts who make their living insisting that different faces demand different collar types. In case you hadn’t guessed, we’re dubious about such claims—if you like a spread, wear a spread—but if you’re into such rules, here’s the conventional wisdom: Gents with square faces should opt for relatively narrow, pointed collars to help elongate their mugs, whereas longer faces are, theoretically, balanced by a collar with a wider spread.

If you’re going to wear your shirt with a tie, the collar’s points should still be able to touch the shirt’s front when your tie is on. A spread collar, which is generally considered dressier than a point, leaves more room for large knots like the full or half Windsor. Spread collars come in a variety of widths, ranging from the subtle (essentially a slightly flared point collar) to the traditional English spread to the near horizontal, which is also known as a cutaway.

The club collar, which drifts in and out of fashion every seven to eight decades, is shorter, with rounded edges. (Now happens to be one of the times when it’s in vogue.) It’s a great look, but, thanks to the style’s old-timey flavor, it probably shouldn’t be paired with a waistcoat. Unless you enjoy being reminded by random strangers that Deadwood was cancelled years ago.
Whatever style you choose, your collar should be high enough to protrude about half an inch above the collar of a suit jacket. In the interests of proper respiration as well as correct fit, you should be able to slide two fingers between your neck and the shirt’s collar when the top button is fastened.

Buttons
Buttons can be made of anything from gold to tagua nuts, but the most common material is plastic, and the most desirable is mother of pearl. Plastic buttons are perfectly fine as long as they’re made of strong resin, which will allow them to withstand hundreds of washings (they won’t withstand a collision with a sewing machine needle, however, though if your tailor is that clumsy you should probably find a new guy).
For those with a keen eye, mother of pearl (or “oyster shell” from an aquatic standpoint) looks more elegant, though it does cost more, especially if it comes in the form of triple-stacked (usually 3.8 millimeters and above) buttons. Mother of pearl is hard enough to break a needle in the event of a run-in, but it can degrade after repeated encounters with laundry detergent, so it may not be the best choice for an everyday shirt. And finally, with button holes, as with many things shirt-related, a higher number of stitches (200 is considered a lot) is a sign of greater luxury.

Other Details
The Placket
A standard placket is a strip of fabric, raised off the shirt, stitched in place on either side. A cleaner, smoother and dressier look is the so-called French placket, which is barely a placket at all: the edge of the shirt is folded over, creating a creased edge which is held in place by the button holes. There is also the covered placket, which features a strip of fabric concealing the shirt’s buttons.

They say that time is money, but when it comes to shirting, stitches are money: as with all clothing, the more hand sewing there is on a shirt the higher the price will be. All shirts are made at least partially on a sewing machine, but certain tasks that are performed towards the end of construction are done by hand by the better shirt makers. These can include the sewing of buttonholes and the attachment of buttons, as well as pockets, side seams, sleeve inseams and the basting of collars and sleeves. In short, handwork is usually saved for the aspects of a shirts’ construction that are visible to the discerning eye.

Single-needle Stitching
One key distinction is between types of stitching, namely single-needle versus double-needle. Single needle tailoring produces a single row of stitches at the seams (which involves one needle going over the same area twice), as opposed to the two parallel rows you get with double-stitching. Single needle seams are significantly less prone to puckering, and many people consider them to be stronger. Such added strength may not be crucial unless you’re going to play football in your $400 dollar shirt, but single-needle does give a cleaner, more refined look.

Gussets
Another aspect of the shirt that is sometimes attached by hand is the gusset—the triangular piece of fabric at the bottom of the side seam which is designed to add strength and flexibility. Some shirt makers do their gussets in contrasting colors; this is partially a hidden decorative feature, and partially a warning to the wearer— if said decorative feature becomes unhidden, it means your shirt is about to pop out of your pants.

Fit
A shirt can made of the finest Sea Island cotton, hand-stitched by Italian grandmothers in some idyllic hill-top town, but it’s not worth much if it doesn’t fit properly. Avoid the blousy, tented look at all costs: There should be no fabric billowing above your waistband when the shirt is tucked in, and no danger of a breeze inflating the front when it’s untucked. Your don’t want your shirt tight enough for strangers to count your chest hairs, but it should closely follow the shape of your torso, while still allowing you to cross your arms without it pulling at the shoulder.
As for length, if you’re tucking your shirt in, you should be able to raise your arms without it coming untucked. If you’re not tucking it in, you should be able to raise your arms without showing the world your navel, but it shouldn’t be long enough that you could be naked from the waist down in public, yet avoid being arrested.

Sleeve length is also essential. If you’re wearing your shirt with a jacket, you want to show between a half-inch and a full inch of fabric (more rakish types opt for the latter). As for how long your sleeves should be, try this: With your arm at your side and your shirt cuff buttoned, you should just be able to brush the tip of your shirt sleeve with your middle finger folded back against your palm. What’s more, you should be able to stretch your arms out without the sleeve traveling more than a half-inch up your wrist.

Having a suit is very important for men’s wardrobe. In fact, they hierarchy of fashion, any high-quality suit stays a man’s only trump card. Even in today’s age of casual-wear, the men suit yet carries an air of achievement, experience, and superiority. Men’s suits are especially designed to make you appear much better than normal wear, to break the gap among social classes, to make a less heighted man tall with pinstripes suit and to make a fat man look slimmer. Suits usually look great when you go to restaurants, travel, events, dinner parties, work place or Paris; in other words, anywhere you go. This is the best and complete form of dress, which can never fail.

Unfortunately some of the suits may look ugly and awful, but then it is not necessary. Even if you are at work for 9 hours with your suit on, being watchful of the suit clothing would certainly keep you prepare for a party after work. Again few men does not really know how to care and how to wear suit and untimely land up looking horrible, this should obviously be avoided.

However before buying a men suit there certain general rules that needs to be followed:

- Regardless of the suit style, fitting is what you need the most. This simply means all suit pieces must be cut and stitched appropriately in your shape. Actually, this does not ask to spend you lot of money but then you just need to be watchful and little brains to ignore any syrupy compliments a salesman may give.

- Trends have six-to-eighteen-month shelf lives. If you plan to retire your suit in this window, feel free to splurge. Otherwise, shop considerately.

- Normally any trend goes for about six to twelve months. If you are now planning to retire your purchased suit in this season, then feel free to overdo. In other case, do shop thoughtfully.

- Men Suits are made up of wool or cotton, and some of their variations. Do not go with additional fabrics.

- You are an attractive, positive, colorful man. Let your surroundings learn that from how you act, not from the tag on your jacket.

- A suit coat goes only with suit pants, does not go with jeans or chinos. If you desire a casual jacket, purchase a sport-coat or may be a blazer.

- It is important to know what to need to wear along with your suit. Unless you’re a chic confident guy, keep it easy: any decent light colored shirt, dark tie will surely work for you.

- A self-effacingly, chic man has never failed to make an impression. Note it.

Know that you do not require ten suits to decorate the wardrobe, just four is sufficient. This simply means that you could be a discerning shopper and spend more time accumulating, and then maintaining it in good condition (dry cleaning a year and keeping away from spills will do).

by: Rod Hagwood

Guy garb just doesn’t have the same drama inherent in women’s wear.
The rest of the animal kingdom has the male species with all the colorful plumage, sculptural antlers and bushy manes but man…well….man is different.
Man wants to blend with the herd – with a psuedo uniform if at all possible – which is fine since fashion is currently in a quiet, soft mode for both sexes.

“It’s casual in South Florida,” said Nick Wooster, men’s fashion director for Neiman Marcus. “But the difference between, say, L.A. casual and South Florida casual is the East Coast. South Florida is part of the DNA of New York…from Palm Beach all the way down Miami Beach. So it’s a little dressier, a little more refined, a little more polished.”

Apparel brands that market to men – we’re talking labels such as Levi’s, Gant, Burberry, Lacoste – are looking to their pasts for design inspiration, rebooting Americana work-wear and Ivy League prep looks.

“History and heritage make a brand more relevant, especially to men,” said Tom Julian, trend analyst and author of “Nordstrom Guide to Men’s Everyday Dressing.” Not only does it impart a cool back story, the authenticity that they evoke serves as a powerful cultural connector for the shopper.’

So here are the 7 things you need to know about men’s wear trends this fall/holiday season.
SUIT UP – Heralded by television’s “Mad Men” and the movie’s “Wall Street 2: Money Never Sleeps” the power suit is back, this time slimmer with a narrow necktie or more fitted if double-breasted. “Expect more interest in what’s inside of the suit thanks to craftsmanship, sartorial tailoring and new technologies,” said Julian.

SOFT TOUCH – “Velvet is a huge trend anywhere you go,” said Wooster. “Velvet gives you amazing color saturation and it’s perfect for those Florida evenings. It’s exactly on-trend for South Florida because it goes great with jeans; it goes great with a printed T. We have velvet from Lanvin, Prada, Gucci, Caruso, Brioni, Tom Ford. ”

GETTING THE BOOT – “Everything from military-inspired lace-up boots to suede dress Chelsea boots in a diverse array of colors and fabrics will be in heavy demand,” said Julian.

KNIT PICKS – There used to be a time when knit tops were used for layering. But now knits have woven themselves into outerwear with jackets, blazers and cardigans. Julian observed, “Adventurous types may gravitate towards short-belted knit coats and more traditional men may like the double-knit zip-front jacket to pull together a tailored look with shirts, ties and trousers.” Or you can try a woven shirt from the likes of Etro and Robert Graham, said Wooster. “It’s the number one question for men: what do you wear at night when you go out?” said Wooster. “Guys are always looking for interesting things to wear – alternatives really – when they go out in the evening.”

GRAY MATTERS – If you looked solely at the designer runway shows for fall 2010, you’d think only gray fabric was being made for men’s wear. “From slate to charcoal and cement, gray is so versatile,” said Julian. “Gray plays nicely in herringbones, tweeds, checks and in flannel. The color acts as a foolproof addition to the closet whether it comes to mixing with everything from dark denim to flannel shirts to turtlenecks.”

GO GREEN – “I’d say the new color is green,” said Wooster. “Green has a million shades attached to it. You have everything from a dark olive in Michael Kors and Vince to more of a military green with Etro, which also has some bright yellow-greens.

SHIRT HAPPENS – If the balmy sub-tropical evenings just won’t allow you to rock velvet, then Wooster suggests you try a woven shirt, maybe under a camel-colored deconstructed blazer or light-weight leather jacket. “It’s the number one question for men: what do you wear at night when you go out?” said Wooster. “Guys are always looking for interesting things to wear – alternatives really – when they go out in the evening.”

8 Easy Steps to Tie a Tie
Learning how to tie a tie is one of those basics that men need to know. There are quite a few different types of knots, but we are going to talk about the basic “Four in Hand Knot”. This knot works best with your basic collar, button down shirt -- whether it is a dress shirt or casual.
Since it was difficult to find step by step instructions, I’ve put together a short, tutorial in hopes it will help you out as well! The key is to not get frustrated and practice several times. It is just like tying a shoelace, once you learn how to tie a tie, it will be second nature!
How To Tie a Tie
• Place the tie around your neck with the wide end of the necktie on your right
• Extend the wide end to about 12 inches below the narrow end
• Cross the wide end over the narrow end
• Turn the wide end back underneath the narrow end
• Bring the wide end back over and to the front of the narrow end
• Pull the wide end up and through the loop around your neck
• Holding the front of the knot loosely with your index finger, bring the wide end down through the front loop
• Remove your finger and tighten the knot carefully to the collar by holding the narrow end and sliding the knot up

If the step by step tutorial isn’t clear enough, I’ve added a video!