A successful investment-banker in a sharp Italian suit, a lawyer about town in an elegant two-piece affair, a politician on television in a formal suit-and-tie: all these members of the male species depend on their suiting and style to gain them standing and instant respect in their public life. Wearing an impeccably tailored suit is already a statement of affluence and impeccable taste, while the cut and style speak volumes about the wearer even before a single word is spoken.

The suit became commonplace in late 17th Century France. Louis XIV, the ultimate emperor of style led the charge towards a more casual and comfortable attire for men during his 72-year reign, shifting the style of male clothing from the doublet, hose, and cloak, the fundamentals of a man’s wardrobe, to coats, vests, and breeches – the three predecessors of modern male attire.
Suits are the ultimate business statement making an impression at interviews, in boardrooms, during cocktails and formal dinners. Why? A suit is still seen as a way to gain respectability and a man wearing a well-fitted stylish suit means business.

So how do you pick the best suit for you?

1. You need at least one fantastic suit in your wardrobe. If you don’t have much money then probably the one item to make a large one off investment in is your jacket. Don’t feel shy spending at least $500 for a great suit – even more if you can afford it. Then substitute it with a couple more light-weight suits and jackets in the $200-$400 range to help mix things up.

2. Always make sure your suits and shirts fit well around the collar. Don’t buy oversized collars; they come across as slack and lazy. And too tight, well, we all need to breathe now don’t we??

3. Some men can easily mix patterns, suits, stripes, loud pocket kerchiefs, silky shiny materials, hats, tophats, and blinged up cufflinks. Some cannot!! It’s important to find the style that suits your personality, fits your career (bling in a conservative law firm certainly won’t go down that well!) and helps you ease forward in the game of life.

4. Ties are the one accessory for men that can really be personalised and allow you to express yourself and add some color and diversity. Ties can be suited up or dressed down with jeans and a white shirt (open top button and loose knot). Wander into second stores to dig up some classic and vivid ties with vibe and spirit, and perhaps spend a bit more on some nice new (perhaps black or red) versatile ties.

5. Find the right fit for our body:

* If you’re a big guy: Remember there is more of you to love, so wear your bulk with pride. Wear lightweight, suits built from heavier textiles will only add weight. Soft, worsted wools are your best friend. Choose darker colors which give desired slimming factor plus they’re classy and classic. If you’re going to stripe it, make it a solid vertical to create a sleek, slender visual. The jacket: Two buttons are optimal – they won’t draw attention to your bulky frame and stay single on the vent, which will give you the extra room you need minus the extra attention.

* If you’re tall and very lean, add weight with heavier fabrics – on a tall, skinny guy, lightweight fabrics will hang and make you look all the more frail. Heavier wools like tweed or a heavier weight worsted wool that hold their form is the smart decision; and give you much-needed proportion and the appearance of additional weight. Colors – opt for the greys and classic browns – Lighter colors; will add weight to your overall look. Jacket? Three buttons create height and length, tall guys, with their longer torsos, can pull this look off successfully. Keep it classy with the single vent – Although taller, slimmer men tall, skinny men have two options for the vent: we advise that you stick with a single-vent or ventless jacket which is always the classier choice.

* If you’re slight and shorter than average avoid loud patterns – The print of an overly bold pattern screams for attention and will only draw attention to your slight frame. Subdued, chilled out colours and small stripes, if any, will be far more stylish for you. Stripes – For shorter men, the next best thing to a shoe with a higher sole is a suit with vertical stripes. As stripes run top to bottom, they tend to draw the eye upward. Plus, they also lengthen your frame by elongating the look of the suit; giving you the illusion of appearing taller than you really are. Go for double vents – Small guys, the double-vent jacket was created with you in mind. The dual slits (or vents) along the side emphasize the outside lines of the body; in doing so, they establish an attractive, longer silhouette that complements and lengthens your frame.

The Bespoke Suit
These are custom made by a tailor from a pattern created entirely from the client’s measurements, giving the best-fit and free choice of fabric. Some of the most expensive suits in the world are painstakingly hand made by an increasingly scarce breed of extremely skilled tailors. These tailors know how to make suits that hide physical flaws and highlight attributes, without sacrificing comfort. Machine use is minimal, and each and every nuance of a client’s spoken and unspoken needs are met and often exceeded. Brioni, Attolini, Kiton, Luigi Borelli and Caraceni are some of the best known names in Italian bespoke suits. Some of the world’s most expensive suits are the Kiton K50s exclusively tailored by Senor D’Orsi, one of the finest tailors in the world. He makes not more than 50 suits in a year, each costing up to 50,000 USD. The fabrics used on a bespoke suit are usually the best, mostly worsted wool for business suits. These fabrics are used in the counts of 80’s and 90’s, or super 100’s, super 150’s and higher. The counts in the range of 80’s and 90’s also feel great and usually last longer than higher counts made at even the best clothing manufacturers. For those who can afford it, a bespoke suit made in the super 150’s fabric can be an absolute asset. It feels fabulously comfortable to wear and looks even better.

Made-to-Measure Men’s Suits
Not every one is privileged enough to get a bespoke suit made, but there is a range of suits which is nearly as good. With made-to-measure suits, (a pre-made pattern modified to fit the client, with a limited selection of options and fabrics is available) it is possible to achieve a degree of customization because the tailor takes up to 25 measurements of an individual body, and these are then sent to the factory. Here, alterations are made to already available basic patterns in order to achieve the best fit possible. Special requests like extra pockets, specific fabrics and linings, and a certain design and style can be accommodated. Some of the best fabrics, threads and interlinings are used, which helps guarantee a quality suit. But the production is assembly line, and many tailors work on the suit at different stages of production, unlike the single tailor for the bespoke suit. Ermenegildo Zegna su Misura does some of the best fittings in the made-to-measure industry. A good deal of technology goes into the making of these suits and their fabrics. Some Zegna suits use fabrics like Micronsphere which has all the great qualities of worsted but is also stain-resistant, or Cashco, which is a blend of cashmere and cotton, making it an all-weather fabric.

Off-the-rack Designer Men’s Suits
Though these cost about half that of a good made-to-measure Italian suit, they are still worth the money. The first and foremost advantage is speed, no agonizing fittings and long waits for the suit to get ready, and if chosen carefully, an off-the-rack suit from Prada, Armani, Versace, Zegna or Gucci fits quite well and is unbeatable for casual elegance and comfort. The trick is to shop around for the right size, cut and look. What is more, off-the-rack suits are good for those who are looking for variations and for different types of fabrics and styles. The beauty of an off-the-rack designer suit lies in its ability to change from season to season, and to bring in a hint of casual flair to the conservative world of men’s business clothing.

Ready to Wear
These suits are mass produced, least expensive and most common. You’ll find them in department stores and are an option for the budget conscious shopper. If you’re diligent in shopping carefully and following the tips above on getting the best fit for you, these suits may allow you to look suitably elegant in business attire and save your pocket at the same time.

Forget about practicality. A high-end, off-the-rack suit is definitely a pleasure. While made-to-measure and bespoke suits are essential for the executive who can afford the privilege, an off-the-rack style that's tailored to fit can be just as flattering. Especially if you don't want to wait weeks for its arrival. This season, several suit makers are offering both quality and quirk, from colorful silk-lined collars to super-skinny pants. "The suit is being interpreted in a million different ways," says Eric Jennings, men's fashion director at Saks Fifth Avenue. "Designers are really pushing the envelope." Here are 11 that fit such a description as well as they fit their buyers.

Ermenegildo Zegna
Recently chosen as the "best of the best" in an international poll of persons who can afford to buy the best. The poll was conducted by Luxury Brands Status Index of high net income consumers in separate polls in the United States, Europe, China and Japan. Zegna was chosen number 1 in the U.S. and Japan and number 2 in Europe.

Adam Kimmel
Known best for his fascination with the art world, drawing inspiration from artists such as Gerard Malanga and Matthew Barney, up-and-comer Kimmel takes traditional work wear and adds luxury-level tailoring. This gray wool flannel two-button suit and top coat are paired with a pocket-front denim shirt, sweatshirt tie and wingtip shoes for an understated take on an office favorite.
Coat, $1,985; blazer, $1,685; pant, $650; shirt, $335; belt, $100; shoes, $525; tie, $160, all Adam Kimmel. Available at Barneys New York nationwide.

Tom Ford
Former Gucci creative director Ford has a penchant for taking fine fabrics and sexing them up a bit, as he has with this snazzy--but not over-the-top--ebony and white pinstripe silk peak lapel suit. The brown-and-white picnic check shirt is offset by a silk jacquard tie with a larger check and a lilac pocket square. Ideal for a creative office or a wedding with a loose dress code.

Gucci
A black-tie ensemble doesn't have to be conservative. This black velvet blazer has a subtle gray pin dot pattern but is paired with traditional wool tuxedo pants for a look that's both elegant and innovative.

Brioni
To many, Italian label Brioni makes the best off-the-rack suits (and it shows in the price tag). "They're the top tier," says Matt Landsberg, president of Washington, D.C.-based Eric Finn, a custom clothier that also offers shopping advice to executives. That's because each suit--like this brown check wool version with a classic pleated pant and an old-school bow tie--is handmade. "They don't cut any corners," he adds.

Lanvin
While lots of high-fashion menswear designers send collections down the runway that no one but the style-obsessed would actually wear, Lanvin's Lucas Ossendrijver creates suits that are both directional and wearable. This navy silk two-button suit cuts a slim, but not skinny, silhouette with plain-front pants tapered at the ankle. While it's certainly of-the-moment, it's not so trendy that it won't be a favorite for years to come.

Ralph Lauren
A linen suit is a different kind of sartorial risk. While it's classic in its styling, it tends to wrinkle, meaning it might be a bit too messy for the office. However, 100% linen tends to hang better than a linen/cotton blend, so it's worth the extra cash. This single-breasted version comes in traditional khaki with a fitted blazer and low-rise pant. Add a white pocket square for summer weddings and outdoor parties.

Dior Homme
Former Dior Homme designer Hedi Slimane is credited with bringing the ultra-skinny suit to the forefront of men's fashion, and this black wool version designed by the brand's current creative director Kris Van Assche reemphasizes that trend. It looks best with a skinny tie, and on a skinny guy, and it can double as a tux with a French cuff shirt and black dress shoes.

Armani
This black wool suit is more traditional, with three buttons, Besom pockets and a single-pleated pant. The forgiving fit makes it an ideal power suit for the C-suite exec; it's both comfortable and refined.

Isaia
Neapolitan suit maker Isaia creates classic Italian suiting with a Mediterranean flair. This stoic navy wool suit, for instance, is brightened up with a shocking pink liner on the collar. Saks' Jennings also likes the label for its lightweight, high-quality fabrics.

Dolce & Gabbana
Your favorite suit doesn't have to be fussy. This Italian-made style comes in black pinstripe with two buttons, flap pockets and a wool-spandex blend that offers a bit of forgiving stretch. The straight leg on the pant and notched lapel ensure it'll endure trend cycles.