By Niamh O'Rourke

As London Fashion Week kicks off, stylist Niamh O’Rourke gives her essential tips for the modern male

It's the film the fashion world has been breathless anticipating. And legendary Gucci designer Tom Ford didn't disappoint with his debut as a director.
A Single Man is a visual feast, beautifully shot and featuring an impeccably styled Colin Firth. His character may be in the throes of despair but he certainly wears a crisp white shirt well

Set in the 1960s, A Single Man, which is in cinemas now, is bound to be as influential on men's fashion as the extraordinary stylish drama Mad Men, which takes place during the same era - a golden age for men's fashion.

A word of warning, though boys. You have probably got used to your better half extolling the sartorial virtues of MM's Don Draper, with his slim-cut check suits, crisp shirts and narrow ties. Now you'd better prepare yourself for a real dressing down when you bring her to see Colin in all his glory.
But we've got a little help for you. Regardless of the latest trends there are still three key rules for the stylish man. Whether you're a street chic blogger who prides themselves on being ahead of the curve or a refined gent who appreciates a little luxury, sartorial salvation is in the detail.
Rule number one -- consider your choice of shoes carefully, they say a lot about who you are.

Secondly, it's worth investing in tailoring. Suiting is all about the fit, fabric and finish. You need to be patient in your search and be prepared to stretch the budget. A well cut suit will play a key role in your wardrobe so don't underestimate its payback.

Finally, rough and ready or slick and sharp, grooming is important so give your skin, hair and nails a little TLC.
Now that the basics are in order, what does menswear have to offer us for Spring /Summer 2010?

Double breasted jacket
According to Paul O'Connor, the menswear buying director for Brown Thomas, the double-breasted jacket or the 'DB' is this season's key piece. That said they're not for everyone and you need to have a trim tummy to pull this one off.
In place of the usual six or four-button version, this season's is a very low, two-buttoned offering. The shape is soft and the cut is short. To wear it well, team with a basic T-shirt or fine knit and a slim-fitting chino or jean.

Carrot leg chino
There's something a little disconcerting about using a vegetable to describe a garment, but this is the term that's doing the rounds; the 'carrot' leg silhouette.
Basically it's a slim-fitting, tapered trouser. Good in denim, but great as a chino, this looks super cool with a rolled-up end for a knowing nod to the '50s.

Dark indigo denim
When it comes to jeans, dark indigo are the way to go. Swedish label Acne does a great slim silhouette while Paul Smith's offerings are perfect for a more classic cut.

Checks
This street chic trend is here to stay. From the high-end Dsquared and D&G to the more accessible Topman and French Connection, the check shirt is fitting very comfortably into the '50s revival.

Go for a country'n'western feel with popper buttoning and piped trim. Alternatively, Gordon Richardson, Topman design director advises a short-sleeved hooded version to keep the look fresh.

Checks are not to be limited to the canvas of a shirt. Suits and jackets in everything from Prince of Wales to hounds tooth and gingham are all fair game.

Grey
This season, grey is the hue of choice. A light silvery tone to be precise. Mix with dark colors and discrete textures for an understated vibe. Alternatively, this neutral color works perfectly with pastels.

If you have a phobia of color, introduce it into your wardrobe gradually in the form of a lightweight scarf, shirt, pocket handkerchief or subtle trim.

Accessories
Thick-framed glasses
Accessories are paramount when it comes to putting an individual twist on any look.
If you see yourself as cool enough to carry off any trend that comes your way, then a pair of heavy horn-rimmed glasses will establish your confidence.
These have been knocking around on the noses of the cool kids for quite a while now, but with Colin Firth sporting his very retro pair in A Single Man, you'll realize this trend is just about to take off.
In terms of sunglasses, it's the season of the classic shape, particularly aviators.

Brogue
The ubiquitous brogue can be either comfortingly classic or boldly retro, depending on the style you choose.
If you want to keep it classic, go for a traditional shape like a pair of Church's or Tricker's, both are quintessentially English brands steeped in craftsmanship.

If you want to go down the more flamboyant road, go for a bright color or two-tone option. This solid piece of footwear will be the lynchpin of your wardrobe.

Luxury holdall 'v' shopper
Always a talking point, the man bag can be a point of consternation. According to Gordon Richardson, "the luxury holdall will finish off any look".
This doesn't mean you need to go out and spend a fortune on a calfskin version by Etro but it does mean that it's a far cry from your gym kit bag.
Asos has a great selection for under €40 that plays the part perfectly. For a more contemporary look, Paul O'Connor suggests the shopper, a tote shape that every level of label from Prada to Acne is a fan of.

If trends play no more of a part in your wardrobe than a blue glitter shoe, then check out the following timeless pieces to keep your look polished.
Dark indigo jean: This is a smart version of a casual classic that is a great multi-tasker. Avoid boot cut and go for a classic straight leg like those by Paul Smith.

Brogue: You can never go wrong with a classic brogue. Opt for muted tones and a rounded toe.

Suit: An impeccably tailored suit will take you places. Try Canali for a classic broad fit or Prada or Paul Smith for something more slimline.

Trench or Mac: A belted trench like the Burberry classic in stone or camel is the perfect spring overcoat.
Crisp shirt complete with cufflinks and collar bones: Try Thomas Pink on Dublin's Dawson Street for a vast selection.

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Below are a few important tips on selecting a suit for your particular body type. These tips will help you accentuate your positives and minimize your negatives.

The Short Man
Don’ts:
• Don’t wear a longer suit jacket. It just makes your legs look shorter.
• Don’t wear fat ties and wide lapels; keep it slim.
The 5 Tips Every Short Man Should Know
1) Be honest with yourself. Admit you’re short and buy short-length suits.
2) A pant leg with very little break will help you look taller.
3) Show some cuff to lengthen the look of your arms.
4) A peak lapel helps elongate your physique.
5) A lower button stance creates long lines, and that essentially stretches you out.
A Belt Makes You Look Shorter…
The more pared-down you are, the taller you’ll appear. So ditch the belt. Going beltless looks cool, and if your suit fits properly, your pants will stay in place.

Short Man, Slim Shoe
You don’t want to look like you’ve got weights around your ankles. Wear slender shoes

The Tall Man
Don’ts:
• Don’t buy suits with oversize, padded shoulders. They swallow you up, making you look frailer, not bigger.
• Don’t wear extra-slim ties. You need ties with a bit of width so they won’t appear to elongate your torso.

The 5 Tips Every Tall Man Should Know
1) Lighter colors add width to a narrow frame.
2) A two-button suit works great on a tall man—as long as the suit has relatively high-cut lapels.
3) Just because you’re tall doesn’t mean you need an extra-long suit size. Try on a long first.
4) Keep the amount of cuff you show to a minimum.
5) Ask for a decent amount of break in your trousers, so your long legs don’t look too long.
Tall Man, Rounded Shoe
Take a pass on those pointy dress shoes—you don’t want to make your feet look longer than they are. Opt instead for a slightly rounder toe, to help keep your foot size in check.

Divide and Conquer
When you’re tall, you want your clothes to play down your height—to keep things in proportion. Accessories that cut across your body, such as belts, quarter-folded pocket squares, and horizontally striped ties, help accomplish this.

The Large Man
Don’ts:
• Don’t wear a roomy suit. It doesn’t make you look slimmer—it makes you look sloppy.
• Don’t go untucked.
The 5 Tips Every Large Man Should Know
1) Wear a pocket square. It brings the focus to your chest, not your gut.
2) Keep your jacket buttoned unless you’re sitting down.
3) Wear a simple, elegant shirt. Avoid plaids and checks.
4) You can wear flat-front pants. They are engineered to be comfortable, even without pleats.
5) Avoid superskinny ties and lapels. Proportion with your torso is key.

Suspend Your Weight
Avoid having to choose between strapping your pants above or below your belly: Wear suspenders and float your waist.
Big Man, Solid Shoe
Choose shoes that have a substantial sole. You need something solid to anchor your weight.

The Athletic Man
Don’ts:
• Don’t wear peak lapels. Your chest and shoulders are broad enough—no need to accentuate them.
• Don’t wear a pocket square. It’s not necessary to call more attention to your already proud chest.

The 5 Tips Every Athletic Man Should Know
1) A solid build doesn’t mean your suit should be a size too large.
2) Two-button jackets sync up with the V shape of your torso.
3) Low-collar shirts work well with a thicker neck.
4) Your jacket will likely need to be taken in at the sides.
5) Yes, you can wear narrow-cut trousers. It’s your chest that needs room, not your ankles.
Fit Torso, Fitted Shirt
Look for shirts labeled “slim” or “athletic.” You don’t need excess fabric hanging off that toned midsection of yours.
Strong Man, Solid Shoe
You don’t want anything clunky on your feet, but you also don’t want to look like you’re wearing ballet flats.

Jeanine Poggi

Wearing a suit is one thing, but wearing one that fits perfectly is something else. Look at these details to make sure you buy the right one.

A well-made suit is not just a fashion statement. Some argue it's the sort of thing that can help determine how far up the corporate ladder you go--and whether you manage to stay on it during a period of layoffs.
Even before the financial markets went south, businessmen were trying to dress the part. Men's tailored categories, which include suits, suit separates and sport coats, grew 7% overall in 2007, according to the NPD Group, a market research firm. In the current climate, however, such items are essential--and you should pay serious attention to detail when shopping for them.

In Depth: Anatomy Of A Well-Cut Suit
"Suits should be seen as investment pieces," says Michael Fisher, menswear editor at Stylesight, a trend-forecasting firm. "Just as men would do research before buying a new car, they should pay attention to the details of a suit, because it will be hanging in their closet for a while."

The most important quality of a good suit is a jacket that has a full canvas layer between the fabric and lining, says Michael Ostrove, senior vice president at men's retailer Paul Stuart. Cheaper suits have a lining that is fused or glued to the fabric. A more affordable option is half-canvas, where the designer only uses a layer in the more visible top portion of the jacket, but full canvas is best.

"Full canvas conforms better to the human body after multiple wears," Ostrove says." When the jacket is glued or fused it doesn't fit or wear as well." To test if the jacket is full-canvas, pinch the layers of fabric between the button holes. If you feel three layers it is full canvas, two layers is half canvas and one layer means the lining is fused or glued.

Also look under the collar of the jacket for a felt lining. "This allows the jacket to double as outerwear when it is cold and rainy," Fisher says. "It also helps the suit hold its shape around the neck."

Next, look at the tags for the thread count. The optimal thread count is a super 100 to 120, Ostrove advises. "The higher the number, the finer the yarn, which makes it more durable, soft and silky." But don't be tempted to go too high. Once you get into the 200s, the suit may look beautiful, but it becomes more fragile.

If you are buying a suit off the rack, avoid working buttons on the cuff of the jacket. "While they are a trademark of a made-to-wear suit, they make the jacket more costly and difficult to tailor," Fisher says. Also, the button should not be plastic; they crack easily in bad weather or from numerous trips to the dry cleaner. Opt for tortoise shell or enamel buttons instead.

When people in men's fashion talk about change, they usually talk about little things. Fits, fabrics, finishes — you know, little things that, depending on whether you are familiar with the oeuvre of Martin Margiela, may or may not matter to you all that much. But the kind of change we're talking about here, it's something different. Because in case you haven't noticed, the world as we know it is ending — politically, culturally, and, oh yes, economically — and a new one is aborting. One that demands the kind of ballsy style that was familiar to our grandfathers but lost for a generation; one that calls for renewed efforts to make a statement and get the details just right; one that requires that we dress every day as if we were going to get hired or fired or handpicked from obscurity to become a vice-presidential candidate, because, hell, that's just the kind of world we're living in now.

Fashion has always been a state of mind — an attitude that expresses itself in the details of how a man gets dressed — and with the ground shifting daily, it's time for a change of mind. It's time to embrace a new ideal, a new approach to dressing, and a few guidelines (nine of 'em) that will deliver us from the wilderness, our senses of self and style stronger than ever. Let's get started.

The suit's got to fit
You'd think that a lot of men would know this, but judging by how a lot of American men choose to wear their suits, you'd be wrong. Quick test: The jacket should sit close enough on the body that you can just barely slide your hand inside beneath the breast pocket. If you can slide in a fist, it's at least a size too big.

Respect the tie
Tuck in the shirt. Button the jacket. Get it right, all the time, every day, and look in the mirror before you leave the house.
Make a statement with something. (Perhaps your socks.)
Something on your person should always make a statement, and that statement should preferably be "Go to hell." Say it with socks, with a tie, or with a great pair of pants, and say it often.

Consider showing a little cuff
Mad Men killed the pocket square. Focus instead on showing just the right amount of shirt cuff (a half to one inch). This and a good watch or cuff links are all the flash you need.

Navy blue, not black
We know black is easy, but navy blue is easier, more versatile, and looks better against every skin type. Plus, it doesn't look brown under fluorescent lights. (Black does.)

Patterns: Mix. Don't match
It's only when you contrast the scale, texture, or color of different patterns that such combinations work.

If you wear a tuxedo, wear a tuxedo.
That means bow tie, cummerbund, and peak lapel. Everything else is negotiable, even the shoes.

A great jacket lets you get away with anything
It elevates everything else you're wearing and opens all kinds of doors. Which is why you should always have one with you?

How long should your trousers be
The length of your trousers is everything. A half inch too long and you're instantly disreputable; a half inch too short and you're laughable. A one-inch kink in the front crease and you, my friend, are golden.

The Gucci Group announced on Thursday that it would continue to produce fashion collections and accessories under the Alexander McQueen label after the suicide of the avant-garde designer last week.

At its annual meeting Thursday, PPR paid tribute to the British fashion designer Alexander McQueen, who died last week.

Robert Polet, the chief executive, speaking at an annual meeting of Gucci’s parent company, PPR, said that the company would continue to finance the brand. He also said in a statement released soon afterward that a McQueen collection would be shown during Paris Fashion Week in March.

Mr. McQueen was widely reported to have completed at least part of a fall 2010 collection before his death, leading to speculation as to whether it would be shown posthumously in tribute. The designer, known for his thought-provoking and sometimes shocking collections, was found dead in his London home on Feb. 11 at age 40. An officer of the Westminster Coroner’s Court in London said during proceedings this week that the cause of death was asphyxia and hanging.

The Gucci Group’s announcement did not make clear what the company’s strategy for future designs would be, but a spokeswoman said that Mr. Polet was meeting with Mr. McQueen’s staff to formulate a plan. The fall collection will be shown to small groups of editors on March 9 and 10, but not on a runway, as are most Fashion Week collections.

Retailers that carry Mr. McQueen’s signature collection, as well as fragrances and a lower-price line called McQ, had been anxious about the future of the brand because many fashion labels have stumbled after the loss of their creators. Although Gucci does not break out sales numbers for its smaller brands, the McQueen business, according to a report in Women’s Wear Daily, was approaching annual sales of $100 million.

“I believe strongly in the Alexander McQueen brand and its future,” Mr. Polet said in the statement. “There is an outstanding team at Alexander McQueen, a team that has enormous talent and energy and a passion that Lee was extremely proud of, and so am I.” Lee was Mr. McQueen’s first name.

So much of the label’s success has been wrapped up in Mr. McQueen’s personality and singular vision, however, some analysts have questioned its viability beyond licensed products like sunglasses or fragrance.

“People can try to imitate Alexander McQueen, but what is it going to be?” asked Jeffry M. Aronsson, who runs a consulting and investment group called the Aronsson Group and who was formerly the chief executive of Donna Karan and Oscar de la Renta. “Brash behavior? You can make all of the loud statements he used to make, but it won’t be him.”

Mr. Aronsson suggested that it would be difficult for Gucci to carry on a designer collection under the McQueen label without the credibility of an actual designer, but the trend more often favors carrying on such labels.
Gucci said it wants to continue to expand the brand, which, since it was acquired, has opened stores in New York, Los Angeles and London and introduced collaborative products with Puma, Samsonite and Target, among others.

PPR reported Thursday that its 2009 net income rose 6.9 percent, to 984.6 million euros ($1.3 billion), despite a 4 percent decline in revenue, to 16.52 billion euros. The bottom line was bolstered by the initial public offering of CFAO, the company’s African automobile and pharmaceutical distribution business.

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Adam Gabbatt, guardian.co.uk,

A look back at the career of one of Britain's most successful designers

Lee McQueen was born in the East End of London on 17 March 1969, the son of a taxi driver and the youngest of six children.

He left school at 16 to serve an apprenticeship at the Savile Row tailors Anderson and Shephard, eventually making suits for Prince Charles.

McQueen later worked for Gieves & Hawkes and the theatre costumiers Angels, before being employed, aged 20, by Koji Tatsuno, a Japanese designer with links to London.

A year later McQueen was in Italy, working as a design assistant to Romeo Gigli, a Faenza-born designer renowned for his use of luxury fabrics.

By 1994 he was back in London, where he completed a masters degree in fashion design at Central St Martins College of Art and Design. His degree collection was bought in its entirety by the fashion icon Isabella Blow, a move that created a lasting friendship only broken when Blow killed herself in 2007.

After graduating McQueen set up his own label, based in the East End, where he launched his "bumster" trousers – extremely low slung trousers revealing the wearer's buttocks – and increased the fame of his label through numerous newspaper headlines.

He was appointed head designer at the French label Givenchy in October 1996, working there until leaving in March 2001, reportedly claiming the contract was "constraining his creativity".

In December 2000, Gucci Group acquired 51% of his Alexander McQueen label, where McQueen remained employed as creative director until his death.

He saw the label flourish throughout the 2000s, releasing women's and men's ready-to-wear collections as well as accessories, eyewear and two fragrances.

By 2007 there were Alexander McQueen boutiques in New York, London, Los Angeles, Milan and Las Vegas, although the year was a difficult one personally, with the death of Blow in May 2007.

Said to be devastated by her death, McQueen dedicated his 2008 spring and summer show at Paris fashion week to the Tatler fashion director.

In July 2008 the Alexander McQueen internet store launched, allowing fans to purchase directly from McQueen's website. Rihanna and Lady GaGa are just two of the many celebrities frequently seen wearing Alexander McQueen, with GaGa reportedly incorporating his work into her music videos.

One of McQueen's lifelong passions was scuba diving, and in a 2009 interview he described it as a source of inspiration. His spring 2010 collection, Plato's Atlantis, appeared to draw heavily on an underwater theme.

The designer's mother, Joyce, died on 2 February this year.

McQueen was named British designer of the year in 1996, 1997, 2001, and 2003, and international designer of the year by the Council of Fashion Designers of America in 2003. He won the Fashion Directors Award in 2007 for his McQ denim-based brand, and was GQ's menswear designer of the year in 2007.

He was awarded the CBE in 2003.

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