By Maggie Kalogeropoulos

Sure, tall men might be good at reaching the top shelf or making that slam dunk, but when it comes to style those with plenty of height to spare face a different set of fashion challenges than others. Pants that are too short, shirts that are too tight and shoes that are too small make dressing a hassle for those over the six-foot mark.

Rest assured, however, that tall men are not doomed to be out-of-date and out-of-style; vertically gifted men, too, can dress as spiffy as their shorter, more fashionable brethren.

And what better place to turn to for fashion tips for tall men than the NBA? Former NBA players and uber-tall fashion experts Jalen Rose and Allan Houston, gave us the lowdown on how to dress your bigger build.

What are the biggest fashion challenges facing tall men?
Allan: If there are clothes you like, you probably wont be able to get it in most places because tall men’s bodies are different. Most of the stuff you see are for men who are a little bit shorter. Even if you’re not athletically built, the height issue makes the difference. It’s easier for shorter men who are even a little wider to find clothes and make them work than it is for tall men.

Jalen: A lot of the time tall men can’t buy stuff off the rack because it doesn’t fit right; it may be too big in the waist or too big in the leg or too small in the ankles. You can’t get the same kind of custom fit as someone who’s “normal” sized. It becomes challenging, but tall guys just have to take a little more time and really take their look seriously. When you’re a tall man, you can’t just grab something and throw it on and have it work -- you have to put thought and effort into it.

The No. 1 fashion rule is about having confidence in your look. You should look in the mirror and accept, like and appreciate what you see. Yes, there are tips you should follow, but for the most part fashion is about your confidence and look. Be the clothes, don’t let the clothes be you.

Should tall men have their clothing custom-made?
Jalen: Ideally, everyone would love to have the opportunity to have tailor-made clothes, but if you can’t do that, the cleaners work just as well, you just have to understand your size.

Allan: There are big and tall stores… but it depends on what you want. Like for me, I’m not all about wearing suits; I like to wear jeans, sweaters and T-shirts, so when you start getting into the different elements of style, clothes gets a little harder to find, and so getting things custom-made becomes one of your only options.

What are the common fashion mistakes tall men make?
Jalen: A lot of the time, tall men might not find things in their size, so they might wear pants or shirts that are too big, or even a hat that’s too big. If you’re tall, you’re trying to compensate for the fact that your pants [for example] don’t fit well in the waist, so you overcompensate with the size.

Allan: There’s just not a lot of stuff out there for tall guys. When you’re tall, you most likely have a build that’s long and lanky, but most clothes aren’t built for that [body type] so most guys wear pants and suits that are too big or too small for their body. This is why you have to get your clothes tailored or custom-made.

Should tall men stay away from things like bright colors and vertical stripes?
Jalen: You can dress for the season; color is universal and it all depends on how you pull it off with the rest of your look. If you’re a tall guy, I don’t think the way you dress can be confined, but there are subtle ways to wear all the looks. There are ways to wear colors, verticals stripes…
Allan: I don’t believe in myths like that. I mean, I wouldn’t wear a bright green shirt with orange pants, but if you have a general idea of what works for you and you have a certain style, that shows me more than what you have on. It shows how you put it together and how you feel in it. That’s really what people see: Someone with confidence in what they’re wearing and how they’re wearing it.

Use common sense when you get dressed. Some men just want to go out there and make a big, bold statement, but if you’re tall you don’t have to do that.

What advice should tall men follow when suit-shopping?
Allan: Don’t be afraid to let the suit really fit your body. Embrace your body type. And I’m picky with ties, so don’t let the suit do all the work, let the tie do more of the work.

Jalen: My favorite quote is by Jay-Z: “So long and lanky, my suit it should thank me.” Your look is all about how you feel, so when you’re shopping, [what you choose] has to be you. Everybody has their own style, some guys like to wear a three-piece suit with a blazer, and some guys might like to wear a “corporate thug look” where you have on your gym shoes with your outfit -- there are many different ways to dress it up and down.

What are the best shoe styles for men with big feet?
Jalen: For dressy gym shoes, you can get into the Louis or the Guccis; for the dress shoes, you can go the gator route; but for everyday shoes, there are tons of brands you can rock, and that’s what makes your look so fly. Having big feet doesn’t tell you what type of shoes you should wear. There are men who like to wear cowboy boots, dress shoes… It all depends on your outfit.

Allan: I don’t like the big, floppy types of shoes, but I think that it’s really a preference thing. It really comes down to being comfortable and to not wearing shoes that make your feet look a lot bigger than they are.

Who are some designers that cater to tall men?
Allan: I used get stuff from Narciso Rodriguez, John Varvatos, Ralph Lauren… You can get a nice pair of jeans from a place called Jean Shop in New York, but as far as designers go, it’s really tough because it’s not really available.

Kevin Willis (who used to play for the Atlanta Hawks) has a line that caters to tall men. He has some jeans that a lot of athletes wear, and they’re as stylish as they’re going to get and they cater to our [tall] body types.

Who are the most stylish tall men?
Allan: LeBron James does a good job… Cuttino Mobley, Kevin Willis…

Jalen: Jalen Rose is a real good dresser! Keyshawn Johnson is a real good dresser, so are Michael Smith and Chris Carter.

Allan Houston retired from the NBA in 2005 after playing with the Detroit Pistons and the New York Knicks. This two-time NBA All-Star and fashion connoisseur stands at 6’6”.

Jalen Rose’s NBA career spanned from 1994-2007, during which time he played for the Chicago Bulls, the New York Knicks and the Phoenix Suns, among others. Jalen was also voted as the NBA’s Best Dressed and is currently the fashion editor at HOOP Magazine. He stands at 6’8”.

By Farah Averill

Unfortunately, not all men are born tall and handsome with naturally built physiques. Nevertheless, while you may not have won the genetic lottery, clothing and grooming choices can go a long way in helping you make the best of what you've inherited. This week, we're focusing on fashion tips for skinny and fat men because both skinny and chunky men can alter their wardrobes in order to flatter their body types and feel more confident in their skin. All you have to do is know yourself.

Many men spend a lot of time dieting and working out to achieve a slimmer physique, all while harboring serious envy for their skinny counterparts who can eat whatever they please without gaining an ounce. Because society tends to equate being lean with being attractive, it's easy to forget that being too thin is a real problem that some individuals face. When it comes to fashion, just as overweight individuals find it tough to buy clothes that are flattering for a larger body, super-slim people experience difficulty finding clothes that fit well and complement their smaller frames.

One way to bulk up is to join a gym and start lifting weights, alongside eating more protein and other foods that will add muscle mass to a bony body. However, don't worry if you hate exercise or can't seem to fit it into your day, because we've put together a collection of fashion tips for skinny men that will help you create the visual illusion of being larger than you truly are.

Buy blazers with small shoulder padding
To make your upper body look more muscular, purchase blazers with light shoulder padding. Be warned that bigger is not better here, as small shoulder pads will give your back and chest a visual boost, but massive padding will make you seem like a small boy lost in a man's jacket in addition to cheapening your look, even if your blazer is pricey.

Avoid slim-fitting shirts
Avoiding slim-fitting dress shirts and T-shirts is an important fashion tip for skinny men. Instead, opt for tops that come away slightly from your midsection, as these will hide a small ribcage. Don't buy your tops too large, though, as too much extra fabric will make you seem like you’re swimming in your shirt. In addition, avoid clingy fabrics. Check the labels on your tops to make sure they don’t contain too much elastic.

Tailor your blazers
Only wear single- or double-breasted blazers and make sure to tailor them so they fit properly throughout your entire body. Avoid any loose fabric under the arms or in the shoulder area. Also, a key fashion tip for skinny men is to keep consistency in your tops and bottoms, so don’t wear oversize blazers or sweaters with fitted pants (or vice versa) or your thin frame will be glaringly apparent.

Wear jackets at the right length
When it comes to jackets, make sure they all fall right under your buttocks. A shorter jacket will emphasize your height as well as your skinny waist, arms and legs. A longer jacket, on the other hand, can make you look like a blanket-covered stick.

Wear flat-front pants
Your pants should have a classic cut and remain simple with a flat front. Go for straight-leg or slightly boot-cut shapes and steer clear of tapered trousers or skinny jeans. Pockets also add a bit more volume to your shape, as do pleats and cuffs, but wear pants with the latter two features only when they’re in fashion. Don't be afraid to wear pants with lines or patterns because these add volume, although you’ll want to banish pinstripes from your closet as they will make you look like a beanpole.

Choose bulky fabrics
Choosing bulkier fabrics for all your clothes is an important fashion tip for skinny men. When in style, thick corduroy pants can beef up your legs. During the colder months, skip out on trends like fitted, grandpa-style cardigans in order to avoid resembling a schoolboy, and try chunky, knitted wool cardigans instead. As far as dress clothes go, select heavier wools for your suits and cotton dress shirts with a higher thread count. Whether you’re dressing up or down, always dress in layers as more clothes means you appear to have more mass.

Wear turtlenecks and crewnecks
When you’re a skinny man, wear turtleneck or crewneck sweaters in chillier weather. V-neck sweaters will expose your neck and thin features. Similarly, open-collared shirts won’t flatter you, so button up your dress shirts as much as possible. Pay attention to the collar when you’re buying dress shirts and pick ones that have spread collars as they will make the upper portion of your chest seem wider.

Unfortunately, not all men are born tall and handsome with naturally built physiques. Nevertheless, while you may not have won the genetic lottery, clothing and grooming choices can go a long way in helping you make the best of what you've inherited. This week, we're focusing on fashion tips for skinny and fat men because both skinny and chunky men can alter their wardrobes in order to flatter their body types and feel more confident in their skin. All you have to do is know yourself.

The best way to look great in the long-term when you’re overweight is to lose excess weight with the help of a proper diet and exercise program. Once you start dropping pounds, your clothes will fit better and your confidence will increase along with your motivation to try new fashions and styles.

Since there’s no reason to put off looking good until you reach your goal weight, we’ve put together a few fashion tips to help you make the most of your shape right now and create a slimmer-looking physique.
Ensure your clothes aren’t too tight

Your clothes should fit perfectly. Garments that are too tight will reveal all the lumps and bumps you’d rather not draw attention to. On the other hand, while very loose clothing will hide your problem areas, it will also make you look larger than you actually are. Take care when shopping to choose pieces that skim over your body and smooth out its surface.

Don’t wear tops with sloped shoulders
Avoid tops with naturally sloped shoulders as these tend to draw the eye down to your midsection. Instead, check to make sure that all your tops have slightly squared shoulders as these will concentrate others’ attention on your body to your chest and face.

Don’t wear bold patterns
Avoid loud or bold patterns as they will make you stand out in addition to drawing attention to the upper half of your body. One pattern you should wear, however, is vertical lines; they create optical continuity and will help elongate the look of your body. Dark, solid colors are also your new best friend as they are an instant figure fixer and will make you seem 10 pounds thinner.

Wear low-rise bottoms
Instead of wearing trousers and jeans that hit at your waist, invest in low-rise bottoms that sit on your hips. Low-rise trousers have a shorter distance between the top of the waistband and the crotch of your pants than regular trousers. Also, ensure that the waistband of your pants is large enough to accommodate your midsection so that your belly does not stick out over your pants. A stomach that protrudes over your pants lengthens your torso and shortens your legs -- not exactly the most attractive combination. Rotund individuals should also avoid pants with pleats as they will make your pelvic area look bigger.

Empty your pockets
Don’t carry around excess baggage. Emptying your pockets of unnecessary items like bulky cell phones, overstuffed wallets and electronic devices will take the focus off a large midsection. On your pants, have any bulky side pockets sewn shut or removed by a good tailor. Doing so won’t cost much and it will make your hips appear smaller.

Wear V-neck shirts
V-necks are a great way to create the illusion of a slimmer neckline, particularly if you have a double chin, as they place emphasis on your chest area instead of on your neck. When it comes to dress shirts, choose ones with very pointed collars to focus others’ attention on your face. Avoid turtlenecks completely as they will make your neck disappear, meaning that you’ll look shorter and, therefore, bigger.

Wear three-button blazers
Avoid one- and two-button blazers. Instead, go for blazers with three buttons. They are just as classic as two-button blazers, but they will elongate your body and make you appear taller and, therefore, thinner. As well, always leave the top button on your blazer undone as it will stop your clothes from pulling, particularly in the area around your middle, and consequently, your movement will seem less restricted.

Stand up straight
It’s a tried-and-true tip: Work on your posture. Standing up as straight as possible will make you look like you just dropped 10 to 15 pounds and will also make you feel and act more confident -- a trait that most people find quite attractive. To appear even slimmer, buy shoes with a small heel of about half an inch to one inch.

Avoid bulky blazers
Avoiding bulky fabrics means that chunky wool sweaters are a big no-no. To stay warm in the winter, go crazy for cashmere as it provides warmth without adding bulk to your figure. Or, try a dress shirt and V-neck sweater vest combination as the sweater vest will keep you warm while also smoothing out your midsection and love handles. For suits, choose softer wools so that the fabric is as thin as possible. Invest in high-quality, lightweight wool suits if you can afford them as these will be the most flattering suits for your body and you’ll feel and look like a million bucks when you put them on.

Wear pants with a longer hem
Wear your pants long to seem taller and thinner. They should hit almost at the ground to really lengthen your body. If you’re wearing shoes with a heel, the bottom of your pants should hit about a quarter to a half inch above the heel, no more.

WHAT TO WEAR
Whatever your body type, play up your best features and de-emphasize those you don’t love quite as much. Dress to flatter your shape, but don’t try too hard as you don’t want to look like a bald man who uses a comb-over to hide his flaws -- only to emphasize his problem areas.

The Short Man
Don’ts:
• Don’t wear a longer suit jacket. It just makes your legs look shorter.
• Don’t wear fat ties and wide lapels; keep it slim.
The 5 Tips Every Short Man Should Know
1) Be honest with yourself. Admit you’re short and buy short-length suits.
2) A pant leg with very little break will help you look taller.
3) Show some cuff to lengthen the look of your arms.
4) A peak lapel helps elongate your physique.
5) A lower button stance creates long lines, and that essentially stretches you out.
A Belt Makes You Look Shorter…
The more pared-down you are, the taller you’ll appear. So ditch the belt. Going beltless looks cool, and if your suit fits properly, your pants will stay in place.
Short Man, Slim Shoe
You don’t want to look like you’ve got weights around your ankles. Wear slender shoes.

By Niamh O'Rourke

As London Fashion Week kicks off, stylist Niamh O’Rourke gives her essential tips for the modern male

It's the film the fashion world has been breathless anticipating. And legendary Gucci designer Tom Ford didn't disappoint with his debut as a director.
A Single Man is a visual feast, beautifully shot and featuring an impeccably styled Colin Firth. His character may be in the throes of despair but he certainly wears a crisp white shirt well

Set in the 1960s, A Single Man, which is in cinemas now, is bound to be as influential on men's fashion as the extraordinary stylish drama Mad Men, which takes place during the same era - a golden age for men's fashion.

A word of warning, though boys. You have probably got used to your better half extolling the sartorial virtues of MM's Don Draper, with his slim-cut check suits, crisp shirts and narrow ties. Now you'd better prepare yourself for a real dressing down when you bring her to see Colin in all his glory.
But we've got a little help for you. Regardless of the latest trends there are still three key rules for the stylish man. Whether you're a street chic blogger who prides themselves on being ahead of the curve or a refined gent who appreciates a little luxury, sartorial salvation is in the detail.
Rule number one -- consider your choice of shoes carefully, they say a lot about who you are.

Secondly, it's worth investing in tailoring. Suiting is all about the fit, fabric and finish. You need to be patient in your search and be prepared to stretch the budget. A well cut suit will play a key role in your wardrobe so don't underestimate its payback.

Finally, rough and ready or slick and sharp, grooming is important so give your skin, hair and nails a little TLC.
Now that the basics are in order, what does menswear have to offer us for Spring /Summer 2010?

Double breasted jacket
According to Paul O'Connor, the menswear buying director for Brown Thomas, the double-breasted jacket or the 'DB' is this season's key piece. That said they're not for everyone and you need to have a trim tummy to pull this one off.
In place of the usual six or four-button version, this season's is a very low, two-buttoned offering. The shape is soft and the cut is short. To wear it well, team with a basic T-shirt or fine knit and a slim-fitting chino or jean.

Carrot leg chino
There's something a little disconcerting about using a vegetable to describe a garment, but this is the term that's doing the rounds; the 'carrot' leg silhouette.
Basically it's a slim-fitting, tapered trouser. Good in denim, but great as a chino, this looks super cool with a rolled-up end for a knowing nod to the '50s.

Dark indigo denim
When it comes to jeans, dark indigo are the way to go. Swedish label Acne does a great slim silhouette while Paul Smith's offerings are perfect for a more classic cut.

Checks
This street chic trend is here to stay. From the high-end Dsquared and D&G to the more accessible Topman and French Connection, the check shirt is fitting very comfortably into the '50s revival.

Go for a country'n'western feel with popper buttoning and piped trim. Alternatively, Gordon Richardson, Topman design director advises a short-sleeved hooded version to keep the look fresh.

Checks are not to be limited to the canvas of a shirt. Suits and jackets in everything from Prince of Wales to hounds tooth and gingham are all fair game.

Grey
This season, grey is the hue of choice. A light silvery tone to be precise. Mix with dark colors and discrete textures for an understated vibe. Alternatively, this neutral color works perfectly with pastels.

If you have a phobia of color, introduce it into your wardrobe gradually in the form of a lightweight scarf, shirt, pocket handkerchief or subtle trim.

Accessories
Thick-framed glasses
Accessories are paramount when it comes to putting an individual twist on any look.
If you see yourself as cool enough to carry off any trend that comes your way, then a pair of heavy horn-rimmed glasses will establish your confidence.
These have been knocking around on the noses of the cool kids for quite a while now, but with Colin Firth sporting his very retro pair in A Single Man, you'll realize this trend is just about to take off.
In terms of sunglasses, it's the season of the classic shape, particularly aviators.

Brogue
The ubiquitous brogue can be either comfortingly classic or boldly retro, depending on the style you choose.
If you want to keep it classic, go for a traditional shape like a pair of Church's or Tricker's, both are quintessentially English brands steeped in craftsmanship.

If you want to go down the more flamboyant road, go for a bright color or two-tone option. This solid piece of footwear will be the lynchpin of your wardrobe.

Luxury holdall 'v' shopper
Always a talking point, the man bag can be a point of consternation. According to Gordon Richardson, "the luxury holdall will finish off any look".
This doesn't mean you need to go out and spend a fortune on a calfskin version by Etro but it does mean that it's a far cry from your gym kit bag.
Asos has a great selection for under €40 that plays the part perfectly. For a more contemporary look, Paul O'Connor suggests the shopper, a tote shape that every level of label from Prada to Acne is a fan of.

If trends play no more of a part in your wardrobe than a blue glitter shoe, then check out the following timeless pieces to keep your look polished.
Dark indigo jean: This is a smart version of a casual classic that is a great multi-tasker. Avoid boot cut and go for a classic straight leg like those by Paul Smith.

Brogue: You can never go wrong with a classic brogue. Opt for muted tones and a rounded toe.

Suit: An impeccably tailored suit will take you places. Try Canali for a classic broad fit or Prada or Paul Smith for something more slimline.

Trench or Mac: A belted trench like the Burberry classic in stone or camel is the perfect spring overcoat.
Crisp shirt complete with cufflinks and collar bones: Try Thomas Pink on Dublin's Dawson Street for a vast selection.

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Below are a few important tips on selecting a suit for your particular body type. These tips will help you accentuate your positives and minimize your negatives.

The Short Man
Don’ts:
• Don’t wear a longer suit jacket. It just makes your legs look shorter.
• Don’t wear fat ties and wide lapels; keep it slim.
The 5 Tips Every Short Man Should Know
1) Be honest with yourself. Admit you’re short and buy short-length suits.
2) A pant leg with very little break will help you look taller.
3) Show some cuff to lengthen the look of your arms.
4) A peak lapel helps elongate your physique.
5) A lower button stance creates long lines, and that essentially stretches you out.
A Belt Makes You Look Shorter…
The more pared-down you are, the taller you’ll appear. So ditch the belt. Going beltless looks cool, and if your suit fits properly, your pants will stay in place.

Short Man, Slim Shoe
You don’t want to look like you’ve got weights around your ankles. Wear slender shoes

The Tall Man
Don’ts:
• Don’t buy suits with oversize, padded shoulders. They swallow you up, making you look frailer, not bigger.
• Don’t wear extra-slim ties. You need ties with a bit of width so they won’t appear to elongate your torso.

The 5 Tips Every Tall Man Should Know
1) Lighter colors add width to a narrow frame.
2) A two-button suit works great on a tall man—as long as the suit has relatively high-cut lapels.
3) Just because you’re tall doesn’t mean you need an extra-long suit size. Try on a long first.
4) Keep the amount of cuff you show to a minimum.
5) Ask for a decent amount of break in your trousers, so your long legs don’t look too long.
Tall Man, Rounded Shoe
Take a pass on those pointy dress shoes—you don’t want to make your feet look longer than they are. Opt instead for a slightly rounder toe, to help keep your foot size in check.

Divide and Conquer
When you’re tall, you want your clothes to play down your height—to keep things in proportion. Accessories that cut across your body, such as belts, quarter-folded pocket squares, and horizontally striped ties, help accomplish this.

The Large Man
Don’ts:
• Don’t wear a roomy suit. It doesn’t make you look slimmer—it makes you look sloppy.
• Don’t go untucked.
The 5 Tips Every Large Man Should Know
1) Wear a pocket square. It brings the focus to your chest, not your gut.
2) Keep your jacket buttoned unless you’re sitting down.
3) Wear a simple, elegant shirt. Avoid plaids and checks.
4) You can wear flat-front pants. They are engineered to be comfortable, even without pleats.
5) Avoid superskinny ties and lapels. Proportion with your torso is key.

Suspend Your Weight
Avoid having to choose between strapping your pants above or below your belly: Wear suspenders and float your waist.
Big Man, Solid Shoe
Choose shoes that have a substantial sole. You need something solid to anchor your weight.

The Athletic Man
Don’ts:
• Don’t wear peak lapels. Your chest and shoulders are broad enough—no need to accentuate them.
• Don’t wear a pocket square. It’s not necessary to call more attention to your already proud chest.

The 5 Tips Every Athletic Man Should Know
1) A solid build doesn’t mean your suit should be a size too large.
2) Two-button jackets sync up with the V shape of your torso.
3) Low-collar shirts work well with a thicker neck.
4) Your jacket will likely need to be taken in at the sides.
5) Yes, you can wear narrow-cut trousers. It’s your chest that needs room, not your ankles.
Fit Torso, Fitted Shirt
Look for shirts labeled “slim” or “athletic.” You don’t need excess fabric hanging off that toned midsection of yours.
Strong Man, Solid Shoe
You don’t want anything clunky on your feet, but you also don’t want to look like you’re wearing ballet flats.

Jeanine Poggi

Wearing a suit is one thing, but wearing one that fits perfectly is something else. Look at these details to make sure you buy the right one.

A well-made suit is not just a fashion statement. Some argue it's the sort of thing that can help determine how far up the corporate ladder you go--and whether you manage to stay on it during a period of layoffs.
Even before the financial markets went south, businessmen were trying to dress the part. Men's tailored categories, which include suits, suit separates and sport coats, grew 7% overall in 2007, according to the NPD Group, a market research firm. In the current climate, however, such items are essential--and you should pay serious attention to detail when shopping for them.

In Depth: Anatomy Of A Well-Cut Suit
"Suits should be seen as investment pieces," says Michael Fisher, menswear editor at Stylesight, a trend-forecasting firm. "Just as men would do research before buying a new car, they should pay attention to the details of a suit, because it will be hanging in their closet for a while."

The most important quality of a good suit is a jacket that has a full canvas layer between the fabric and lining, says Michael Ostrove, senior vice president at men's retailer Paul Stuart. Cheaper suits have a lining that is fused or glued to the fabric. A more affordable option is half-canvas, where the designer only uses a layer in the more visible top portion of the jacket, but full canvas is best.

"Full canvas conforms better to the human body after multiple wears," Ostrove says." When the jacket is glued or fused it doesn't fit or wear as well." To test if the jacket is full-canvas, pinch the layers of fabric between the button holes. If you feel three layers it is full canvas, two layers is half canvas and one layer means the lining is fused or glued.

Also look under the collar of the jacket for a felt lining. "This allows the jacket to double as outerwear when it is cold and rainy," Fisher says. "It also helps the suit hold its shape around the neck."

Next, look at the tags for the thread count. The optimal thread count is a super 100 to 120, Ostrove advises. "The higher the number, the finer the yarn, which makes it more durable, soft and silky." But don't be tempted to go too high. Once you get into the 200s, the suit may look beautiful, but it becomes more fragile.

If you are buying a suit off the rack, avoid working buttons on the cuff of the jacket. "While they are a trademark of a made-to-wear suit, they make the jacket more costly and difficult to tailor," Fisher says. Also, the button should not be plastic; they crack easily in bad weather or from numerous trips to the dry cleaner. Opt for tortoise shell or enamel buttons instead.

When people in men's fashion talk about change, they usually talk about little things. Fits, fabrics, finishes — you know, little things that, depending on whether you are familiar with the oeuvre of Martin Margiela, may or may not matter to you all that much. But the kind of change we're talking about here, it's something different. Because in case you haven't noticed, the world as we know it is ending — politically, culturally, and, oh yes, economically — and a new one is aborting. One that demands the kind of ballsy style that was familiar to our grandfathers but lost for a generation; one that calls for renewed efforts to make a statement and get the details just right; one that requires that we dress every day as if we were going to get hired or fired or handpicked from obscurity to become a vice-presidential candidate, because, hell, that's just the kind of world we're living in now.

Fashion has always been a state of mind — an attitude that expresses itself in the details of how a man gets dressed — and with the ground shifting daily, it's time for a change of mind. It's time to embrace a new ideal, a new approach to dressing, and a few guidelines (nine of 'em) that will deliver us from the wilderness, our senses of self and style stronger than ever. Let's get started.

The suit's got to fit
You'd think that a lot of men would know this, but judging by how a lot of American men choose to wear their suits, you'd be wrong. Quick test: The jacket should sit close enough on the body that you can just barely slide your hand inside beneath the breast pocket. If you can slide in a fist, it's at least a size too big.

Respect the tie
Tuck in the shirt. Button the jacket. Get it right, all the time, every day, and look in the mirror before you leave the house.
Make a statement with something. (Perhaps your socks.)
Something on your person should always make a statement, and that statement should preferably be "Go to hell." Say it with socks, with a tie, or with a great pair of pants, and say it often.

Consider showing a little cuff
Mad Men killed the pocket square. Focus instead on showing just the right amount of shirt cuff (a half to one inch). This and a good watch or cuff links are all the flash you need.

Navy blue, not black
We know black is easy, but navy blue is easier, more versatile, and looks better against every skin type. Plus, it doesn't look brown under fluorescent lights. (Black does.)

Patterns: Mix. Don't match
It's only when you contrast the scale, texture, or color of different patterns that such combinations work.

If you wear a tuxedo, wear a tuxedo.
That means bow tie, cummerbund, and peak lapel. Everything else is negotiable, even the shoes.

A great jacket lets you get away with anything
It elevates everything else you're wearing and opens all kinds of doors. Which is why you should always have one with you?

How long should your trousers be
The length of your trousers is everything. A half inch too long and you're instantly disreputable; a half inch too short and you're laughable. A one-inch kink in the front crease and you, my friend, are golden.